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H.  R.  MacMxWan 


representing  a  Casket  of  Chotolale  being  handed  to  Neptune  to  make  known  to  the  Countries  of  the  World. 


COCOA: 


All  About  It. 


By   ''HISTORICUS." 


LONDON : 
SAMPSON    LOW,    MARSTON   &    COMTANY, 

LimiteJ, 
ST.  DUXS TAN'S  HOUSE, 

Fetter  Lane,  Fleet  Street,  E.G. 
1892. 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2010  with  funding  from 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


http://www.archive.org/details/cocoaallaboutitOOcadb 


CONTENTS. 


History  and  Cultivation  of  the  Cocoa  Plant       9 

History  of  the  Use  of  Cocoa 38 

Analyses  of  Cocoa    49 

Manufacture  of  Cocoa     53 

Value  of  Cocoa  as  Food,  and  its  Adulterations 74 

Vanilla  Aromatica     93 

Appendix  : — Preparing  the  Ground  for  Planting — Shade- 
Planting —  Training,  or  Artificial  Support  —  Watering — 
Fertilization — Ehiration  and  Period  of  Ripening — Harvesting 
the  Pods — Drying  and  Preparing  the  Pods — Preparing  the 
Pods  for  Market    ,      -^     ^      ,     ^,     .„     ^  »»7 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Full  Page  Coloured  Illustrations  :— 
A  Quiet  Corner  at  Bournville, 
Girls'  Playground  and  Waterfall  at  Bournvine. 
Cacao  Flowers  and  Pods,  showing  inside  of  Pod. 
Cocoa  Pods  on  the  Branch — Trinidad. 
Workpeople's  Cottages,  and  Country  Lane  at  Dournville, 
Cricket  Field  at  Bournville. 
Cocoa  Plantation — Trinidad. 
Collecting  the  Cocoa. 

Illustrations  in  Photopiione  : — 

One  of  the  One-ton  Steam  Roasters  at  Cadbury's  Works. 

Large    Melang<*ur,    with    six    heavy    granite    crushing    rolls,    at 

Cadbury's  Works. 
Grinding  Mills  at  Cadbury's  Works. 

Miscellaneous  Engravings  : — 

Leaves  Flowers  and  Fruit  of  Cocoa  Tree. 

The  Cocoa  Tree. 

Pod,  Leaves  and  Flowers  of  Cocoa  Tree. 

Curing  House  in  Grenade. 

Copy  of  Old  Engraving,  showing  Cocoa  Tree  shad  *d  by  larger 

'Irees. 
Implements  used  in  Gathering  and  Breaking  Pods. 
Sweating  House  in  Grenada. 
Trays  used  for  Drying  Cocoa. 

Copy  of  Engraving  from  rare  work  by  Philippe  Sylvestre  Dufoiir. 
Copy  of  Engraving  from  Dufour's  book. 
Chocolate  Stirrer,  "  Molinet,"  copied  from  an  old  book  puljlislied. 

in  the  Tjth  Century. 
Montezuma  and  his  Offhcers  drinking  Cocoa — from  Dufour's  book. 
Microscopical  View  of  Cocoa  Adulterated  with  Arrowroot. 
Microscopical  View  of  Pure  Decorticated  Cocoa. 
Vanilla  Aromatica — showing  Flowers,  Fruits  and  Seeds. 


COCOA: 

ALL    ABOUT     IT. 


:o:- 


CHAPTER    I. 


:o:- 


IIISTORY  AND  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  TLANT 


-:o: 


IT  was  one  of  the  dreams  of  our 
childhood  to  sail  on  the  bosom  of 
that  mighty  river  whose  water- 
shed covers  the  greater  part  of  the  northern 
portion  of  the  continent  of  South  America, 
and    to    explore     into     the     secrets    of    its 


lo  cocoa:   all  about  it. 

thousand  tributaries  that  penetrate  into 
forests  untrodden  by  the  foot  of  man, 
teeming  with  innumerable  brilliantly-coloured 
birds  and  insects,  luxuriating  in  their  own 
Paradise  of  tropical  plants  and  flowers.  Far 
into  the  dark  recesses  of  these  forests  the 
tributary  streams  of  the  Amazon  flow, 
shadowed  by  forest  trees  growing  to  the 
water's  edge,  festooned  by  gigantic  creepers 
which  hang  in  rich  foliage  and  flower  over 
them. 

We  follow  them  further  on  to  their  sources 
among  the  snow  fields  and  rocky  defiles  of 
the  Andes,  and  amidst  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
world  and  people,  almost  extinct  as  nations, 
but  whose  history  brings  back  thrilling 
stories  of  bye -gone  days  of  civilization  and 
government. 

This  was  the  original  home  of  the  Cocoa 
plant,  and  it  is  found  at  the  present  day  in  its 
wild  state  both  on  the  banks  of  the  Amazon, 
in  Mexico,  and  in  the  United  States  of 
Columbia, 


Cacao  Flowers  and  Pods,  showing  inside  of  Pod.— (Drawn  Jrom  Nature). 


HISTORV    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     I  I 

Its  growth  Is  now  distributed  over  a  great 
portion  of  the  tropical  world,  and  It  will 
thrive    within    25    parallels    of  latitude,    but 


Leaves,  Flowers,  and  Fruit. 

luxuriates    within    15,    and    Is   cultivated    as 
high  as  1,700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  largest  quantities  of  Cocoa  are  pro- 
duced in  Guayaquil,  Para,'  and  Bahia,  the 
West  Indies,  Ceylon,  and  some  portions  of 
the  continent  of  Africa. 


fK-Xt 


12  cocoa:   all  about  it. 

The  finest  qualities  are  grown  in  Central 
America,  Trinidad,  and  Ceylon  ;  the  latter  is 
of  comparatively  recent  cultivation,  but  is  the 
most  delicate  in  colour,  flavour,  and  aroma, 
and  consequently  commands  the  highest 
value  on  the  market."^ 

Cocoa  is  also  grown  in  Mauritius,  Mada- 
gascar, Isle  de  Bourbon,  Australia,  and  the 
Philippian  Islands. 

An  interesting  account  of  the  rise  and 
growth  of  the  West  India  Islands,  written  by 
Dalby  Thomas,  in  1690,  appeared  in  the 
*'  Harleian   Miscellany,"  and  we  extract  the 

*NOTE. — Ferguson  in  "Ceylon  in  1884,"  remarked: — 
"  Cocoa  can  never  be  cultivated  in  Ceylon  to  the  same  extent 
as  Coffee,  Tea,  or  Cinchona,  for  it  requires  a  good  depth  of 
good  soil  and  shelter  from  the  wind,  and  these  are  only  to  be 
found  in  very  limited  areas.  To  the  late  R.  B.  Tytler  belongs 
the  credit  of  introducing  this  cultivation,  and  in  his  hands 
Ceylon  Cocoa  speedily  realized  the  highest  prices  in  the 
London  Market,  experienced  Brokers  remarking  that  there 
must  be  something  in  the  soil  and  climate  of  the  districts 
where  it  is  cultivated  in  Ceylon  peculiarly  suited  to  Cacao. 
There  are  10,000  acres  now  planted,  and  it  is  expected  that 
ten  years  hence  an  area  exceeding  30,000  acres  under  this 
plant  will  enable  Ceylon  to  send  120,000  to  1 50,000  hundred- 
weight uf  its  products  to  European  markets." 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     1 3 

following  amusing  account  of  this  early  attempt 
and  failure  by  the  English  to  cultivate  Cocoa:  — 
*'  Cocoa  is  now  a  commodity  to  be  regarded 
in  our  colonies,  though  at  first  it  was  the 
principal  invitation  to  the  peopling  of  Jamaica, 
for  those  walks  the  Spaniards  left  behind 
them  there,  when  we  conquered  it,  produced 
such  prodigious  profit  with  little  trouble  that 
Sir  Thos.  Modiford  and  several  others  set  up 
their  rests  to  grow  wealthy  therein,  and  fell  to 
planting  much  of  it,  which  the  Spanish  slaves 
had  always  foretold  would  never  thrive,  and 
so  it  happened  ;  for  though  it  promised  fair, 
and  throve  finely  for  five  or  six  years,  yet 
still,  at  that  age  when  so  long  hopes  and  cares 
had  been  wasted  upon  it,  withered  and  died 
away  by  some  unaccountable  cause,  though 
they  imputed  it  to  a  black  worm,  or  grub, 
which  they  found  clinging  to  its  roots."  The 
account  continues  : — *'  And  did  it  not  almost 
constantly  die  before  ;  would  come  into  per- 
fection in  15  years'  growth,  and  last  till  30, 
thereby  becoming  the  most  profitable  tree  in 
the  world,   there  having  been  ^200  sterling 


14  COCOA :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

made  in  one  year  of  an  acre  of  it.  But  the 
old  trees,  being  gone  by  age,  and  few  new 
thriving,  as  the  Spanish  negroes  foretold,  little 
or  none  now  is  produced  worthy  the  care  and 
pains  in  planting  and  expecting  it.  Those 
slaves  gave  a  superstitious  reason  for  its 
not  thriving,  many  religious  rites  being  per- 
formed at  its  planting  by  the  Spaniards  which 
their  slaves  were  not  permitted  to  see.  But 
it  is  probable  that  where  a  nation,  as  they, 
removed  the  art  of  making  cochineal  and 
curing  vanilloes  into  their  island  provinces, 
which  where  the  commodities  of  those  islands 
in  the  Indians'  time,  and  forbade  the  opening 
of  any  mines  in  them  for  fear  some  maritime 
nation  might  be  invited  to  the  conquering  of 
them,  so  they  might  likewise  in  their  trans- 
planting Cocoa  from  the  Caracas  and  Guata- 
mala,  conceal  wilfully  some  secret  in  its 
planting  from  their  slaves,  lest  it  might  teach 
them  to  set  up  for  themselves,  by  being  able 
to  produce  a  commodity  of  such  excellent 
use  for  the  support  of  man's  life,  with  which 
alone  and  water  some  persons  have  been 
necessitated  to  live  ten  weeks  together  with- 


Tbe  Cocoa  Tie*. 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.      I J 

out  finding  the  least  diminution  of  health  or 
strength." 

This  inestimable  plant,  named  by  Linnaeus 
Theobroma  (from  0e6;  and  /Spco/jia,  the  food  of 
gods),  is  an  evergreen  which  grows  to  the 
height  of  from  15  to  30  feet,  with  drooping 
bright  green  leaves,  in  shape  oblong,  eight  to 
twenty  inches  long,  and  pointed  at  the  ends. 
The  flowers  and  fruit,  which  it  bears  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  grow  off  the  trunk 
and  thickest  parts  of  the  boughs,  with 
stalks  only  an  inch  long.  Humboldt  saw  the 
flower  bursting  through  the  earth  out  of 
the  root,  and  wondered  at  the  prodigious 
vital  force  of  the  plant.  The  flowers, 
which  grow  in  tufts  or  clusters,  are  very 
small,  having  five  yellow  petals  on  a 
rose-coloured  calyx.  The  fruit  is  five-celled, 
without  valves,  from  seven  to  nine  and  a-half 
inches  in  length,  and  three  to  four  inches  in 
breadth,  of  an  elliptic  oval-pointed  shape, 
something  like  the  vegetable  marrow,  only 
more  elongated  and  pointed  at  the  end,  tough 
and  quite  smooth,  the  colour  varying,  accord- 

B 


i8 


COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 


ing  to  the  season,  from  bright  yellow  to  red 
and  purple.  The  rind  of  the  fruit  is  very 
thick,  and  similar  to  a  very  hard  tough  apple 
in  substance,  and  having  a  slightly  sweet  taste; 
if  allowed  to  ripen  this  changes  into  a  shell 
of  a  weak  nature.  The  seeds  contained  in 
each    pod    vary  in   number   from    twenty  to 


Pod,  L«aves  and  Flower.— Pod  cut  open  shewing  Seed*. 

forty,    embedded  in  a   soft  pinky-white  acid 
pulp.     The  cocoa  tree,  while  growing  in  that 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     TQ 

portion  of  the  earth  wherein  the  heat  is 
greatest,  yet  requires  a  sheltered  situation  for 
its  perfection. 

A  writer  in  Belgi^avia  graphically  describes 
the  beauty  of  a  Cocoa  plantation  with  its 
luscious  fruit : — 

"The  branches  do  not  grow  low,  so  that 
in  looking  down  a  piece  of  ground  the  vista 
is  like  a  miniature  forest  hung  with  thousands 
of  golden  lamps  —  anything  more  lovely 
cannot  be  imagined." 

Of  the  varieties  and  cultivation  of  Cocoa  in 
Trinidad  and  Grenada,  the  following  extracts 
are  from  the  pen  of  D.  Morris,  M.A.,  F.G.S., 
Director  of  Public  Gardens,  etc.,  Jamaica 
(1882):— 

Cacao  :    How     to    Grow     and    How    to 

Cure    It. 

As  in  a  large  number,  of  cultivated  plants 
entirely  propogated  from  seed,  the  Cacao 
plant  is  liable  to  considerable  variation,  even 
when  seed  is  taken  from  the  best  kinds.  It 
is  important,  therefore,  that  the  Cacao  planter 


20  COCOA  :    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

should  make  himself  acquainted  with  the 
chief  varieties,  and  cultivate  only  those 
specially  suited  for  his  soil  and  climate — care- 
fully weeding  out,  or  **  roguing "  all  those 
which,  from  habit  of  growth,  yield,  character 
of  produce,  and  other  circumstances  are  un- 
suitable for  his  purpose. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  well 
marked  varieties  of  cacao  as  known  in 
Trinidad  : — 

1.  Cacao  Criollo  (Red). 

2.  Cacao  Forastero — 

Var.  a.  Cundeamor  verugoso  amarillo  (yellow) 

b.  „  „        Colorado  (red) 

c.  Liso  amarillo  ...         ...  (yellow) 

d.  „  Colorado  ...  (red) 

e.  Amelonado  amarillo  ...  (yellow) 

f.  „  Colorado  ...  (red) 

g.  Calabacilla  amarillo...         ...  (yellow) 

h.  „  Colorado  ...  (red) 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  varieties  are 
divided  Into  two  great  classes,  Cacao  Criollo 
and  Cacao  Forastero. 

Of  the  Forastero  varieties  the  best  are 
the  Verugoso  Amarillo  (Yellow)  and  the 
Verugoso  Colorado  (Red).     Of  these  two  the 


Cocoa  Piwls  on  tlio  Brimli      rrini(lH(l.-(I>»a»«H  Ac>m  Naturt  ) 


HISTORY   AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     21 

yellow  kind  Is  said  to  yield  a  larger  proportion 
of  seeds  than  the  red,  and  they  are  said  to 
require  less  time  for  fermentation.  It 
appears  that  In  Grenada  also  the  yellow  is 
preferred  to  the  red,  both  on  account  of  Its 
yield  and  Its  greater  adaptability  to  the 
exigencies  of  cultivation. 

The  average  mean  temperature  of  the 
plains  and  v^'^^leys  of  Trinidad  are  naturally 
higher  than  similar  localities  in  Jamaica,  but 
if  we  would  compare  the  temperature  of 
Jamaica  with  that  of  the  plains  and  valleys 
on  the  coasts  of  Guatemala  and  Mexico  it 
would  be  found  that  our  temperature  is  quite 
high  enough  for  the  successful  cultivation  of 
the  Cacao  plant. 

As  regards  elevation,  with  the  exception 
of  some  mountain  ranges  in  the  North,  rising 
into  sharp  j^eaks  of  about  3,000  feet,  the 
surface  of  Trinidad  is  in  general  flat,  or 
gently  undulating.  The  highest  cultivated 
lands  seldom  exceed  200  feet  or  300  feet,  and 
no  parts  are  inhabited  above  500  feet.  In 
Arima  and  the  IMonserrat  districts,  the  Cacao 


22  cocoa:  all  about  it. 

estates  occupy  open  glades  and  moderately 
undulating  country,  ranging  from  almost  sea 
level  to  1 50  feet  or  200  feet.  The  sub-soil  in 
these  districts  is  of  a  marly  character,  over- 
laid, chiefly  in  hollows,  by  gravelly  loam, 
moderately  deep  and  remarkably  free  from 
rocks  and  stones. 

In  Grenada,  Cacao  is  generally  cultivated 
at  a  higher  elevation  than  in  Trinidad,  some 
estates  occupying  hill  slopes  up  to  800  feet. 
The  best  estates  are,  however,  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  or  in  sheltered  glades,  on  land 
formerly  cultivated  in  sugar. 

As  regards  the  planting.  Cacao  requires 
more  care  and  thought  than  is  generally 
imagined. 

For  instance,  it  is  not  only  necessary  to 
be  ready  before-hand  with  Cacao  seeds  or 
plants,  but  the  plants  have  to  be  protected  by 
larger  trees  necessary  for  shade,  and  put  in 
either  before  the  Cacao  or  at  exactly  the  same 
time.  The  Cacao  are  planted  at  exactly  the 
same  distances  apart,  occupying  the  centres  of 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     25 

squares.     Close  to  the  Cacao  plants  are  small 


Copy  of  an  old  engraving  (>-aid  to  be  the  oldest  in  existence  on  Cocoa)  showing 
the  way  in  which  the  Cocoa  Tree  is  shaded  by  other  larger  trees. 

From  Boutekoe's  Works. 

shade  plants  to  protect  them  for  a  few 
months :  further  off  are  the  bananas  and 
plantains,  one  between  each  Cacao  plant,  to 
last  for  about  two  or  three  years  ;  and  lastly 
there  come  the  permanent  shade  trees,  at 
distances  of  39  or  40  feet,  which  at  the  end 
of  three  or  four  years  will  be  the  only 
occupants  of  the  ground  besides  the  Cacao. 
It   delights   in  a  deep   and  moderately   rich 


26  COCOA :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

soil — preference  being  given  to  that  contain- 
ing a  certain  proportion  of  lime  or  marl. 

In  planting,  either  of  two  systems  may  be 
adopted  : — 

I — (a)  Planting  at  stake  (seeds),  or  {d) 
planting  from  nurseries  (plants). 

Plantiitg  at  stake  : — In  this  case  the  best 
and  largest  seeds  in  a  pod  are  taken  and  two 
or  three  are  planted  at  each  stake,  the  soil 
being  first  softened  and  broken  up  by  a  hoe. 

After  being  sown,  the  seeds  require  both 
shade  and  protection  till  they  have  germinated, 
which  they  generally  do  in  a  week  or  ten 
days.  When  the  young  plants  are  from  four 
to  six  months  old,  the  strongest  only  is 
retained,  the  others  being  carefully  reinoved 
to  give  it  full  scope  to  grow. 

Planting  by  stake  is  only  adopted  in  fresh 
good  land  and  where  seeds  are  abundant. 

In  addition  to  selecting  the  best  and  largest 
seeds  (leaving  out  the  end  ones)  it  is  advis- 


Cocoa  Plantation,    Tiiniilad.- (Dmwn //om  Nature.) 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     27 

able  for  this  purpose  to  wash  the  pulp  and 
cover  them  thoroughly  with  wood-ashes,  as 
a  protection  against  ants  and  predatory 
vermin. 

Planti7ig  from  Nurseries : — Where  plant- 
ing at  stake  is  not  practicable,  it  is  advisable 
to  establish,  beforehand,  nurseries  raised  from 
seed  of  the  best  varieties,  so  as  to  have  plants 
ready  for  putting  out  with  the  first  rains.  If 
the  number  be  small  it  would  be  better  to 
raise  the  plants  in  bambu  pots,  as  well  for 
convenience  of  transport  as  for  protection  to 
the  young  plants  in  the  process  of  trans- 
planting. 

Cacao  trees  in  good  situations  begin  to  bear 
in  about  the  third  or  fourth  year.  Individual 
trees  will,  however,  sometimes  show  fruit 
when  only  two  years  old,  but  it  Is  much 
better  for  the  trees  themselves  that  they 
should  be  stripped  and  not  allowed  to  bear 
till  at  least  the  fourth  or  fifth  year.  A  Cacao 
plantation  should  be  in  fair  bearing  from  the 
sixth  to  the  ninth  years,  and  at  its  prime  from 
the  twelfth  year. 


2  8  COCOA  :     ALL    ALOUT    IT. 

Gathering  Crop  : — Although  Cacao  is  In 
bearing  more  or  less  all  the  year  round,  the 
chief  crop  seasons  are  in  May  and  June,  and 
again  in  October  and  November — these  are 
known  in  Venezuela,  where  the  famous 
Caracas  Cacao  is  grown,  as  the  St.  John's  and 
Christmas  crop,  respectively. 

Gathering  crop  is  done  as  follows  : — A 
number  of  men,  each  supplied  with  a  long 
bambu  rod  surmounted  by  a  Cacao  hook  and 
a  cutlass,  go  carefully  over  the  plantation  and 
pick  out  all  the  ripe  pods. 

These  are  known  by  their  colour,  or  better 
still,  by  tapping  them.  If  ripe  they  give  a 
hollow  sound,  as  the  seeds  are  then  loose  and 
detached  from  the  outer  shell.  In  gathering 
the  higher  pods  the  Cacao  hook  is  used,  but 
the  lower  ones  arc  taken  off  by  a  cutlass. 
The  Cacao  hook  is  constructed  so  that  It  will 
sever  the  pod  either  by  a  thrust  or  by  a  draw. 

Few  operations  upon  a  Cacao  estate 
recjulre  greater  care  than  gathering  crop,  and 
for  the  following  reasons  : — 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     29 

At  the  place  where  a  pod  is  attached 
(formerly  a  leaf  axil)  there  is  a  soft  cushion  or 
**eye,"  from  which  all  subsequent  flowers  and 
fruits  arise.  If  this  "eye"  be  damaged — as 
it  inevitably  would  be  if  the  pod  were  ruth- 
lessly torn  off  instead  of  being  cut — the  tree, 
as  far  as  this  point  is  concerned,  becomes 
sterile.  Hence,  if  a  succession  of  these 
"  eyes "  are  thus  treated  the  tree  would 
ultimately  become  practically  valueless. 

When  the  pods  have  been  gathered  and 
left  in  small  heaps  near  the  trees,  they  are 
collected  by  women  into  larger  heaps,  and 
left  till  the  next  day. 

The  larger  heaps  are  generally  placed 
near  a  clear,  open  space,  where  the  processes 
of  "breaking"  and  "drawing"  can  be  con- 
veniently carried  out.  It  is  advisable,  how- 
ever, not  to  use  the  same  spot  too  often,  as 
otherwise  the  empty  pods  accumulate  and 
prove  an  impediment  to  the  cultivation. 

A  party,  consisting  of  a  man  with  a  cutlass 


30  COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

and  two  or  three  women  with  wooden  spoons 


Implements  used  for  severing  the  Fruit  from  the  Tree,  and  cutting  open  the  Pod. 

or  scalpels,  are  told  off  to  a  number  of  heaps, 
and  by  each  one  they  spread  plantain  leaves 
on  the  ground  to  receive  the  seeds.  Then, 
while  the  man  breaks  the  pods  with  his  cut- 
lass, the  women  remove  the  beans  with  the 
wooden  spoons,  clean  them  of  the  fibrous 
tissue  by  which  they  are  attached,  and  throw 
them  in  a  large  heap. 

All  black,  unripe,    or  damaged  beans   are 
placed  on  one  side. 

When  this  process  is  completed,  the  fresh 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     3 1 

seeds  are  ready  to  be  conveyed  or  ''  crooked  " 
to  the  Cacao  house,  and  placed  in  the  "  sweat- 
ing "  house. 


Sweatingt  House,  Granada. 

This  process  is  one  upon  which,  in  a  great 
measure,  the  commercial  value  of  Cocoa 
depends.  The  first  impulse  of  a  grower 
would  be  to  remove  the  pulp  between  the 
seeds  by  washing,  and  dry  the  beans  as 
quickly  as  possible.  This,  however,  would 
not  result  in  a  good  quality  of  Cocoa.  The 
pulp  must  be  removed,  but  washing  is  not 
the  best  process. 

The  fresh  bean  will  be  found  to  be  some- 
what bitter  in  taste,  and  a  pale  crimson  colour  ; 


32  cocoa:  all  about  it. 

both  these  have  to  be  altered  before  the  bean 
is  fit  for  the  market. 

The  best  means  for  this  purpose  is 
evidently  the  one  now  generally  adopted  in 
all  good  Cacao  growing  countries,  and  that  is 
*'  sweating  "  or  fermenting  the  beans.  This, 
for  the  most  part,  gets  rid  of  the  pulp,  softens 
the  bitterness  of  the  fresh  beans,  and  gives 
them,  when  cured,  that  rich  mahogany  tint  so 
much  sought  for  by  chocolate  makers. 

The  sweating  process  may  briefly  be 
described  as  follows  : — The  beans  brought 
from  the  field  are  placed  either  in  barrels, 
oblong  boxes,  or  in  a  close  room,  where  they 
are  packed  closely  together  covered  with 
plantain  leaves,  and  left  hermetically  closed 
for  a  period  extending  from  four  to  seven 
days.  The  exact  number  of  days  will  depend 
on  the  variety  of  the  bean  or  quality  of  Cacao 
desired.  While  thus  shut  up,  a  process  of 
fermentation,  fed  by  the  saccharine  matter  In 
the  pulp,  takes  place,  which  raises  the 
temperature  of  the  mass  to  about  140°  Fah. 
During  fermentation   carbonic  acid  is  given 


Cnlleoting  tHe  Cocoa.- (Drawn /rom  Nature.) 


rilSTORV  AND  CULTIVATION  OF  PLANT.       2>3 

off,  and  some  water.  In  wet  weather  care  Is 
taken  that  the  temperature  of  the  mass  does 
not  rise  too  high,  as  otherwise  the  beans 
would  blacken.  It  Is  often  necessary,  under 
these  circumstances,  to  open  the  Cacao,  and 
carefully  stir  It  before  It  is  returned,  to  com- 
plete the  fermenting  process. 

For  a  plantation,  say  above  lo  acres,  it 
would  be  more  convenient  and  satisfactory 
to  have  a  small  building  for  the  purpose 
attached  to  the  Cacao  house,  called  a  ''  sweat- 
ing house." 

This  house  would  be  somewhat  as  follows  : 
An  oblong  room  on  the  basement  story,  or 
mounted  on  pillars,  with  boarded  sides  care- 
fully fitted,  so  as  to  be  [)erfectly  air-tight. 
The  only  o[)enIng  into  it  Is  by  a  door,  which 
should  also  fit  as  tightly  as  possible.  For 
keeping  crops  gathered  at  different  times 
distinct,  it  is  advisable  t©  have  a  division  in 
the  middle.  The  floor  should  be  double,  and 
constructed  of  rather  close  parallel  bars,  so  as 
to  allow  water,   but    no  beans,  to  fall  through 

into  a  space  below. 

c 


34  COCOA  :     AT>L    AT.OUT    IT. 

When  the  formerly  pale  crimson  colour  has 
given  place  to  a  brownish  tint,  the  Cocoa  is 
turned  out  and  spread  on  the  "tray"  or 
''  barbecue."  It  is  first  of  all  carefully  picked 
over  by  women,  who  separate  the  beans  from 
*' trash"  or  any  foreign  substances.  This 
done,  the  beans  are  covered  with  red  earth, 
and  left  to  complete  the  process  of  fermenta- 
tion for  another  day.  A  number  of  women 
are  then  employed  for  one  or  two  hours  in 
rubbing  them  with  their  hands,  and  cleaning 
them  as  thoroughly  as  possible  from  all 
mucilaginous  and  gummy  matters. 

The  red  earth,  by  its  absorbent  qualities, 
assists  in  ridding  the  beans  of  the  mucilage, 
and  gives  them  a  deep  red  colour ;  it  is  also 
supposed  to  give  them  better  keeping  quali- 
ties. A  large  proportion  of  Trinidad  Cacao 
is  cleaned  without  the  use  of  red  earth,  but 
the  process  is  much  more  tedious  and  the 
beans  are  not  so  good  in  colour  and  general 
appearance.  In  Jamaica,  a  large  quantity  of 
red  earth  for  the  purpose  can  be  obtained  from 
whcrt  are  called  the  "  Red  Hills,"  St.  Andrews. 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    TLANT.      35 

When  the  cleaning  and  rubbing  process  heis 
been  completed,  the  beans  are  spread  out  on 
a  tray  to  dry. 

While  drying  they  are  carefully  turned,  so 
as  to  expose  edl  the  beans  to  the  influence  of 
the  sun  ;  but  in  case  of  rain  they  are  im- 
mediately covered  by  the  sliding  roof  of  the 


—^  3_-..^ 


/L 


Trays  for  Drying  the  Cocoa, 


Cacao  house.  During  the  hottest  part  of  the 
dav,  when  the  thermometer  stands  over  90°  in 
the  shade,  it  is  considered  undesirable  to  ex- 
pose the  beans  too  much  to  the  sun,  as  thereby 
they  become  "parched"  or  shrivelled.  The 
Cacao  house  is  therefore  generally  shut  on  hot 
days  for  three  or  four  hours,  and  the  Cacao  ex- 
posed only  when  the  temperature  Is  low. 

C  2 


36  COCOA  *.     ALL   Al^OUT    IT. 

The  process  of  turning  and  drying  is  con- 
tinued from  day  to  day  until  the  Cacao  is 
thoroughly  cured. 

The  experience  of  the  planter  alone  can  tell 
whether  the  Cacao  is  thoroughly  dry. 

If  well  cured  it  should  have  the  outer  skin 
hard,  crisp,  and  separating  easily  from  the 
bean  below.  The  latter  should  be  firm, 
bright,  and  breaking  easily  on  pressure  into 
the  familiar  Cacao  nibs  of  commerce. 

It  will  be  noticed  that,  so  far,  no  washing 
of  the  Cacao  beans  has  taken  place.  The 
process  of  cleaning  is  accomplished  solely  by 
the  alternating  operations  of  rubbing  and 
drying  with,  as  already  mentioned  in  some 
instances,  the  aid  of  red  "  clay  "  or  earth. 

A  good  Cacao  tree  in  good  soil  yields  from 
fifty  to  several  hundred  pods  per  annum. 
The  average  for  well-cultivated  trees,  at 
seven  years  old,  should  be  between  eighty 
and  one  hundred  pods  per  annum.  As 
it  generally  takes  about  eleven  pods  to  yield 


HISTORY    AND    CULTIVATION    OF    PLANT.     ^J 

one  pound  of  cured  Cacao,  the  above  would 
indicate  that  a  good  mature  Cacao  tree,  under 
favourable  circumstances,  might  yield,  on  an 
average,  not  less  than  seven  pounds  of  cured 
Cacao.  The  average  yield  per  tree  (at  all 
stages)  on  an  estate  of,  say  300  acres,  would 
probably  not  exceed  some  two  or  three  pounds 
per  tree,  or  (taking  230  trees  per  acre)  a  return 
of  4  cwt.  to  6  cwt.  of  cured  Cacao  per  acre. 


CHAPTER    II. 


HISTORY    OF    THE    USE    OF    COCOA. 


30KING  at  the  early 
works  on  the  use  of 
Cocoa  we  find  them  very- 
quaint  and  speculative  as 
to  its  medicinal  value,  and 
its  effect  upon  the  consti- 


tution. 


As  early  as  1624  Joan  Franz  Rouch  wrote 
a  treatise  condemnatory  of  its  use,  and  at  the 
same  time  abusing  the  monks. 

About  contemporary  with  this  was  a  book 
written  by  Antoino  Colmenero  de  Ledesma, 
Medecin  and  Chirurgien,  de  la  Ville  de 
Ecija,  de  T  Andalowzie,"  1631  ;  this  was  trans- 
lated from  the  Spanish  into  French  by  Rene 
Moreav,  in  167 1  ;  and  into  Latin  by  Marco 
Aurelio  Severino,  in  1644. 


Ci'py  of  an  encr^vinij,  from  a  rare  work  by  Philippe  Sylvestre  Dufour,  showing 
a  native  with  his  (hK:..l.itc  pot  ami  drinking  ...]->,  and  the  "molinet,"or 
stirrt-r,  In  his  han.l. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  USE  OF  COCOA.  4 1 

Willem  Boutekoe,  a  Dutch  author  and 
traveller,  wrote  sundry  short  treatises  on 
Cocoa  and  Chocolate  about  1679.  l)e 
Chelus,  1 7 19,  wrote  an  "  Histoire  Naturelle 
du  Cacoa  et  de  Sucre." 

Another  French  work  *'  on  the  quality  and 
nature  of  Chocolate,"  by  Philippe  Sylvestre 
Dufour,  in  1688,  from  which  we  copy  some  of 
the  very  interesting  engravings.  The  first 
work  we  have  seen  in  English  being  "  Trans- 
lated from  the  last  edition  of  the  I' rcnch  by 
R.  Brookes,  M.D.,"  1730. 

Our  knowledge  of  Cocoa  as  an  article  of 
diet  dates  from  the  discovery  of  the  Western 
world  by  Columbus,  in  1494,  who,  we  are  told, 
took  home  with  him  samples  of  the  article ;  and 
the  subjugation  of  Mexico  by  Cortez  in  152 1. 
History  informs  us  that  the  Spaniards  were 
the  first  who  tasted  Chocolate,  which  was  j)art 
of  their  spoil  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico. 
Bernardo  de  Castile,  who  accompanied 
Cortez,  describing  one  of  Montezuma's 
banquets,  says  : — "  They  brought  in  among 
the    dishes  above    fifty    great   jarr,  ,  made   of 


42 


COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 


'  Cacao,'  with  its  froth  and  drank  It,"  similar 
jars  being  served  to  the  guards  and  attendants 
"  to  the  number  of  2,000  at  least." 

Prescott,  in  his  history  of  the  Conquest  of 
Peru,  says  that  "  The  emperor  took  no  other 
beverage  than  the  chocolatl,  a  potation  of 
Chocolate  flavoured  v/lth  vanilla  and  other 
spices,  and  so  prepared  as  to  be  reduced  to  a 
froth    of  the   consistency   of    honey,    which 


Copy  of  an  engraving  from  Dufour's  book* 

gradually  dissolved  In  the  mouth,  and  was 
taken  cold.  This  beverage,  if  so  it  could  be 
called,  was  served  in  golden  goblets,  with 
si)()ons  of  the  same  metal  or  of  tortoiseshell 
finely  wrought."'  The  historian  also  adds, 
**  the    en\[oeror   was  so  (nnd  of   it,  to  judge 


IIISTORV    OF    THE    USE    OF    COCOA.  43 

from  the  quantity,  no  fewer  than  50  jars  or 
pitchers  being  prepared  for  his  own  daily 
consumption,  whilst  2,000  more  were  allowed 
for  that  of  his  household/' 

Mendoza,  in  his  work  upon  the  "Anti- 
quities of  Mexico,"  tells  us  that  amongst  other 
things  paid  into  the  Mexican  Treasury  as 
tribute  by  different  cities  of  the  Empire,  there 
were  "  20  chests  of  ground  Chocolate,  80 
loads  of  red  Chocolate,  and  an  item  of  200 
loads  of  Chocolate.  We  also  find  that  the 
Cocoa  seed  were  used  by  the  Mexicans  for 
currency.  Peter  Martyr  gave  them  on  this 
account  the  name  Amygdalce pcciiniaricr. 

It  may  be  as  well  to  explain  here  that  the 
word  "Chocolate"  is  of  Mexican  origin,  being 
derived  from  "  chocolatl  ";  the  pronunciation 
of  the  word  resembling  the  clattering  sound 
produced  by  the  native  handmill  used  to 
grind  the  Cocoa  and  mix  it  with  sugar. 

Thomas  Gage,  In  his  "  New  Survey  of  the 
West  Indies"  (1648),  says  "the  name  is 
compounded    from    afti\   as  some  say,   or  as 


44  COCOA  :    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

Others,  atle,  which  in  the  Mexican  language 
signifieth  water,  and  from  the  sound  which 
the  water  (wherein  is  put  the  Chocolate) 
makes,  as  cJioco,  cJioco,  c/ioco,  when  it  is  stirred 
in  a  cup  by  an  instrument  called  a  '  molinet,' 
or  'molinillo,'  until  it  bubble  and  rise  unto  a 
froath." 


^:d 


Chocolate  .Slirrer  (Molinet),  copied  from  an  old  book  piil  L^lled  in 
the  J7th  century. 


The  same  writer  remarks  :  '*  Our  English 
and  Hollanders  make  little  use  of  it 
when  they  take  a  prize  at  sea,  as  not  know- 
ing the  secret  virtue  and  quality  of  it  for  the 
good  of  the  stomach."  For  many  years  the 
cultivation  of  the  Cocoa  tree  was  confined  to 
the  Spanish,  who,  in  South  America  and 
some  of  the  West  India  Islands,  carried  on 
the  cultivation  to  a  large  extent.  From  their 
first  settlement  in  Trinidad,  we  are  told  that 
"  it  seems  probable  the  Spaniards  cultivated 
the  tree,  and  thoroughly  understood  its  value, 
the     prepared    article    being    always    much 


HISTORY    OF    THE    USE    OF    CCCOA.  45 

esteemed     in     the     then     opulent     mother- 
country." 

From  Spain  the  monks  introduced  the 
use  of  Chocolate  into  France,  in  1661.  The 
earliest  record  we  have  of  the  use  of  Choco- 
late in  England  is  said  to  be  furnished  by  an 
advertisement  which  appeared  in  the  Public 
Advertisery  or  Adviser  according  to  one 
authority,  of  Tuesday,  June  16,  to  Tuesday, 
June  22,  1657,  informing  the  public  that  "in 
Bishopsgate  Street,  in  Queen's  Head  Alley, 
at  a  Frenchman's  house,  is  an  excellent 
West  India  drink  called  Chocolate  to  be  sold, 
where  you  may  have  it  ready  at  any  time,  and 
also  unmade  at  reasonable  rates." 

Disraeli,  in  his  *'  Curiosities  of  Literature,'* 
speaking  of  the  introduction  of  tea,  coffee  and 
chocolate  into  Europe,  says  :  "  Chocolate  the 
Spaniards  brought  from  Mexico,  where  it  was 
denominated  chocolatl.  It  was  a  coarse  mix- 
ture of  ground  Cacao  and  Indian  corn  with 
rocoic ;  but  the  Spaniards,  liking  its  nourish- 
ment, improved  it  into  a  richer  compound 
with  sugar,  vanilla  and  other  aromatics.     We 


46  COCOA  :     ALL    Ai;OUT    IT. 

had  Chocolate-houses  in  London  long  after 
coffee-houses  ;  they  seemed  to  have  associated 
something  more  elegant  and  refined  In  their 
new  term  when  the  other  had  become 
common." 

Cocoa  was  much  esteemed  as  a  beverage  In 
this  country  during  the  reign  of  Charles  II., 
and  at  that  period   Dr.   Stubbe  published  a 
book  entitled  "The  Indian  Nectar,  or  a  Dis- 
course concerning  Chocolate,   &c.,"  In  which 
the  author  gives  a  history  of  that  article,  and 
many  curious  notions  respecting  its   "  secret 
virtue,"  and  recommends  his  readers  to  buy  It 
of  one   Mortimer,    "  an   honest  though  poor 
man,"  who  lived  In  East  Smithfield,  and  sold 
the  best  kind  at  6s.  8d.  per  lb.,  and  commoner 
sorts  at  about  half  the  price.      It  was  not  until 
the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century  that  Cocoa 
or    Chocolate    was    generally    used    In    this 
country,  and  when  we  take  Into  account  the 
Indifferent    means    for    ])reparatIon    and    the 
adulterated    condition    of  the   article   we  can 
hardly  be  surprised  that  It  did  not  come  into 
general  favour  with  the  public. 


Taattjes  NovKEAVjL  SZiCrnMjErx-  2^P^ 

CZ>         tT^ZJ-      ^^^Y'-^^^^         ^^-^ 

Reproduction  of  an  old   Plate  (1688)  from  Dufour  «  Treatises  on 
Coffee,  Tea,  nnd  Cbocobte 


IILSTOKV    OF    THE    USE    OF    COCOA.  47 

Prior  to  1831,  the  quantity  consumed  in  this 
country  only  amounted  to  500,000  lbs.  per 
annum. 

Sixty  years  has  wrought  a  marvellous 
change,  which  may  best  be  described  by  the 
following  facts  and  figures  of  comparatively 
recent  date.  In  1858  only  2,860,034  lbs.  of 
Cocoa  were  consumed  in  this  country ;  in  1864. 
3,862,273  lbs.;  in  1880,  10,566, 159  lbs. ;  and 
in  1890,  20,224,175  lbs. 

Of  the  Cocoa  now  imported  into  England, 
close  on  one-third  is  cleared  by  the  house  of 
Cadbury,  Bournville,  an  account  of  whose 
factory  we  give  in  another  chapter. 

The  consumption  of  Cocoa  was  quite 
nominal  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  century, 
IS.  6d.  per  pound  being  levied  for  duty  up  to 
1820,  and  every  pound  of  Chocolate  had  to 
be  wrapped  In  papers  supplied  by  the  revenue 
officer. 

In  an  article  by  Dr.  A.  J.  H.  Crespi,  W'im- 
borne,  in  The  Hoiiscwifc,  December,  J8S9, 
he  says  :  — 

The  consumption  of  tea  Is  now  said  to  stand 
at   150,000,000  lbs.   a  year  or  more,   and  of 


48  COCOA  :    ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

coffee  at  80,000,000  or  100,000,000  lbs.,  while 
Cocoa  still  only  reaches  18,464,164  lbs.,  or, 
roughly  speaking,  eight  ounces  per  head,  a 
surprisingly  small  consumption,  especially 
when  it  Is  remembered  that  so  much  of  It 
goes  in  bon-bons  ;  Indeed,  many  people  never 
drink  a  cup  of  Cocoa  or  Chocolate  from  year's 
end  to  year's  end,  though  they  get  through, 
whenever  they  have  the  opportunity,  a  large 
quantity  of  Cocoa  or  Chocolate  sweetmeats. 
We  see  no  reason  why  the  average  consump- 
tion of  Cocoa  should  not  stand  at  one  pound 
a  head,  that  is  at  nearly  40,000,000  lbs.,  for  of 
late  the  growth  of  the  trade  shows  marvellous 
Improvement,  and  our  conservative  country- 
men— conservative  for  good  as  well  as  for  evil 
— have  at  last  begun  to  recognise  the  value 
of  Cocoa  as  a  household  beverage  of  a  class 
with  absolutely  no  other  member. 

The  chemical  composition  of  Cocoa  as  given 
in  a  paper  read  before  the  Society  of  Arts  by 
John  Holm,  F.R.G.S.,  in  1874,  is  as  follows, 
and  the  table  contains  all  analyses  of  any  im- 
portance made  up  to  that  time  : — 


HISTORY    OF    THE    USE    OF    COCOA. 


49 


K)    O 

O      -H 


O  vj  o 
O  cji  11 


Lampedius. 


-p.   (0  O  i;  : 
O  8  8  5 


8" 


o 
o 

8 

8: 

o  • 
o 

:    : 

i 

Payen. 


8  8 


Johnson. 


8 

:    :    :  4^  kj  ui  to  -t>  : 

:    CNvj  :    : 

:    :    o 

8 

'    '    ■    d  o'  o  n  0  ■ 

O   0   0    O   0 

■  88*  • 

'  '  8 

Playfair  and 
I.ankester, 


MilU 


o  o  o 


-p  O  ; 

8  8^' 


o  o 


U^'^  8 


00 : 

8' 


88 


00  sO 


88 


Mitscherlich. 


^ 


o  '-^  Co  : 

sO  O  ^   ' 
O    00  C\ 


-u  o 

O    'wO 


Mitt( 


(yi   o   cK ' 
0  0  0 


00  o  • 

8  8' 


8  ■  8 


Average  of 

several  othir 

analyses. 


50  COCOA  :    ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

Mr.  Holm  also  makes  the  following  obser- 
vations : — 

It  is  a  table  which  is  not  very  flattering  to 
chemical  science,  the  analyses  being  of  the  most 
contradictory  character,  and  containing  dis- 
crepancies which  cannot  be  at  all  reconciled 
with  each  other.  I  should  judge  that  the 
analysis  prepared  by  Drs.  Playfair  and 
Lankester  is  the  most  correct.  We  thus  see 
that,  taking  the  important  constituents.  Cocoa 
contains  : — 

Parts. 

Cocoa  butter 50 

Albuminoid  substances 20 

Starch,  Sugar,  &c 13 

Salts    4 

Theobromine 2 

Other  constituents 11 

100 

Taking  these  in  the  order  of  their  im[)ort- 
ance,  we  first  notice  the  fat,  or  Cocoa-butter, 
forms  about  half  the  substance  of  the 
nibs.  It  is  a  hard,  fatty  substance  which, 
when  clarified,  is  of  a  p.ile  yellow  colour.  Its 
melting  j)oint  is  about  100"  Fah.,  which  being 
the  heat  of  the  body,  renders  it  of  great  value 


HISTORY    OF    THE    USE    OF    COCOA.  5 1 

for  therapeutical  purposes.  The  fat  only 
becomes  rancid  when  subjected  to  heat  or 
h'^^ht,  and  especially  to  the  direct  rays  of 
the  sun.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  point  out 
how  valuable  this  quality  renders  this  portion 
of  the  bean  for  surgical  and  other  purposes. 
The  albuminoid  constituents  form  about  20 
per  cent,  of  the  nib.  These  are  classed 
amongst  the  nitrogenous  princl[)les  of  food 
and  their  presence  renders  Cocoa  one  of  the 
richest  flesh-formers  we  have.  The  starch, 
gum  and  sugar  present,  like  the  Cocoa-butter, 
belong  to  non-azotlsed  principles  ;  they  form 
about  13  per  cent,  of  the  whole.  The  alkaloid 
of  Cocoa,  iheobroviine,  is  very  similar  In  Its 
physiological  effects  to  its  analogues,  theinc 
and  caffeine,  from  which  it  differs  very  sllghtlx' 
in  chemical  composition. 


ESSENTIAL  ALKALOID  PRINCU'LES. 


Yielded 

by 

Name. 

Cocoji 

'Iheobrominc 

Coffee 

Caffeine 

Tea 

Theinc 

C\\.\TAnA 

Guaranine 

Mat6  

Composition. 


Proportion. 


Ct  Hs  Xt  Oi   i       2  per  cent. 

I     All  Identical      |-  i  to  7  per  cent. 
Cs  11,0  N4  Oj     I 

In  less  quantities 


52  cocoa:    all  about  it. 

In  regard  to  these  alkaloids  it  is  interesting 
to  note  that  throughout  the  world  the  instinct 
of  man  has  led  him  to  seek  some  substance 
which  contains  one  of  these  principles,  which 
owe  their  value  to  the  specific  influence  they 
exert  on  the  nervous  system,  stimulating  it 
and  checking  waste  of  tissue.  Theobromine, 
when  extracted,  presents  the  form  of  a  white 
crystalline  powder  of  almost  amorphous 
appearance,  differing  from  caffeine  and  theinc, 
which  have  a  very  beautiful  crystalline 
appearance. 

In  most  of  the  analyses  of  Cocoa  the 
existence  of  a  volatile  oil  has  been  overlooked. 
It  is  probably  present  only  in  small  quantities, 
and  appears  to  be  developed  by  roasting;  but 
upon  it  depends  the  flavour  and  aroma  which 
exists  in  Cocoa. 


CHAPTER    III 


-:o: 


MANUFACTURE. 


E  cannot  do  better  thnn  trans- 
port our  readers  to  Hourn- 
ville,  *'  the  Worcestershire 
Eden  "  as  it  has  been  aptly 
termed,  for  the  surroundings 
of  the  place  have  a  charm 
of  their  own  that  banishes 
the  thought  of  smoke  and  machinery,  and 
gives  quite  a  zest  for  the  ins[)ection  of  this 
happy  and  busy  scene  of  labour.  Bournville 
is  certainly  a  model  factory,  both  for  its 
size  and  its  completeness,  and  because  it 
contains  the  most  modern  improvements  in 
the  application  of  machinery  for  the  manu- 
facture of  Cocoa  and  Chocolate. 


54  COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

Five  tall  chimneys  and  some  acres  of  ware- 
houses and  workshops  divided  by  streets  con- 
nected by  bridges,  and  intersected  by  railway 
lines,  give  some  idea  as  to  the  extent  of  the 
works,  but  for  all  this  our  first  impression  on 
being  taken  through  the  porter's  lodge  was 
that  of  entering  into  a  garden  with  a  welcome 
of  the  sweet  breath  of  flowers  and  the  song 
of  birds  ;  for  we  have  to  pass  by  the  girls' 
garden  and  play-ground,  which  is  well  planted 
and  bordered  on  three  sides  by  trees  and 
shrubs,  while  the  plantations  of  Bournbrook 
Hall  give  the  substantially  country  sur- 
roundings of  which  it  boasts.  One  of  the 
sights  of  Bournville  Is  to  see  the  girls  in  their 
white  costumes,  after  dinner,  sitting  to  read 
under  the  trees,  or  enjoying  in  other  ways  a 
breath  of  fresh  air. 

The  name  "  Bournville"  was  suggested  by 
the  immediate  contiguity  of  the  pretty  stream- 
let known  as  the  "  Bourn,"  which  meanders 
through  the  estate  and  forms  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  factory.  This  rippling 
rivulet  adds    to    the    attractiveness    of    the 


MANUFACTURE  55 

locality,  and  Is  regarded  with  no  little  satis- 
faction by  the  disciples  of  Izaak  Walton, 
who  recognise  in  the  pretty  trout  stream 
an  Important  feature  which  often  gladdens 
the  heart  of  the  angler.  Among  those 
enofao^ed  at  the  works  are  lovers  of  the 
enthralling  pastime,  and  we  are  Informed  that 
recently  trout  of  very  respectable  dimensions 
had  been  landed  from  the  Bourn. 

On  ground  contiguous  to  the  factory,  and 
bordering  on  the  road  which  runs  on  the 
southern  side  of  the  works,  Messrs.  Cadbury 
have  built  i6  semi-detached  villa  residences, 
which  are  inhabited  by  their  most  prominent 
liands — workmen  who  have  shown  by  their 
general  demeanour,  diligence  In  business,  and 
assiduity,  that  they  are  worthy  the  considera- 
tion their  employers  have  evinced  for  their 
interests.  These  villas  are  model  residences, 
let  at  a  comparatively  small  rental  ;  they  arc 
well  built  of  brick,  In  two  colours,  fitted 
internally  with  taste,  and  each  would  easily 
bring  a  rent  of  ^40  per  annum  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  metropolis.      The  inhabitants 


56  COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

of  these  residences  pay  5s.  to  6s.  per  week. 
To  each  house  is  apportioned  a  front  and 
back  garden,  and  the  tenants  are  enabled  to 
grow  their  own  vegetables  and  fruit,  and 
decorate  the  front  parterres  with  flowers. 

Like  many  of  our  largest  manufacturers, 
Messrs.  Cadburv  commenced  business  with 
a  staff  of  workpeople  comparatively  small 
when  compared  to  the  number  of  hands  at 
present  employed  by  them.  About  thirty 
years  ago  under  twenty  employes  comprised 
the  working  establishment,  while  at  present 
they  employ  about  1,600  men,  boys,  and 
girls. 

Owing  to  the  comparatively  Isolated 
position  of  the  works,  ample  provision  has  to 
be  made  for  all  requirements  as  regards 
cooking.  Spacious  dining  rooms  have  been 
provided  separately  on  the  premises  for  both 
men  and  women.  Gas  stoves  and  cooking 
apparatus  have  been  erected,  and  hot  dinners 
can  be  procured  in  a  very  few  minutes.  So 
complete  are  the  cuisine  arrangements  that 
there  is   little  delay  in  serving  all  from  the 


MANUFACTURE.  57 

kitchen,  which  is  constructed  between  the 
men's  and  women's  dining  rooms,  which  are 
kept  quite  distinct. 

The  manufacture  of  Cocoa  and  Chocolate 
requires  great  experience,  skill,  and  special 
knowledge.  In  detailing  the  processes  it  will 
be  convenient  to  divide  them  into  two 
branches,  viz.,  the  production  of  Cocoa 
Essence,  and  the  manufacture  of  sweet 
Chocolate. 

Cocoa  Essence,  which  is  the  speciality  ol 
this  firm,  is  unrivalled  as  a  nutritive  beverage, 
and  therefore  the  most  important  for 
consideration.  The  best  Cocoa  contains 
about  50  per  cent,  of  natural  oil  or  butter, 
and  this  has  been  found  to  be  far  too  large  a 
])roportion  for  ordinary  digestions.  Dr. 
Muter  remarks  that  the  "only  objection 
which  can  and  does  exist  to  its  use  in  a  state 
of  purity  is  the  excessive  proportion  of  fat, 
which  renders  it  too  rich  for  most  digestions, 
and  gives,  unfortunately,  a  colourable  excuse 
for  its  adulteration." 


5^  COCOA :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

By  means  of  elaborate  machinery  at  these 
works  the  removal  of  two-thirds  of  the  butter 
Is  accomplished,  the  result  being  an  impalp- 
able powder  easily  miscible  in  boiling  water. 

As  the  visitor  leaves  the  office  of  the 
principals,  and  enters  the  factory,  the 
fragrance  of  the  Cocoa-berry  salutes  the 
olfactories  most  agreeably.  The  hum  of 
machinery  denotes  that  the  hands  are  busily 
engaged,  and  as  we  pass  Into  the  factory,  an 
earnestness  of  purpose  Is  manifested  by  the 
workpeople  who  are  Intent  upon  their  various 
pursuits.  The  utmost  order  and  regularity  is 
preserved  In  all  the  departments,  and  every 
employe  appears  to  discharge  his  or  her  duty 
with  that  ease  and  readiness  which  Is  the  result 
of  experience  and  training. 

The  Cocoa  arrives  In  sacks  weighing  from 
one  to  two  cwt.,  and  as  it  varies  considerably  in 
kind  and  quality,  it  has  to  be  stacked  in  large 
piles  ready  to  undergo  the  first  process  of 
sifting  and  picking,  so  that  no  unsound  berry 
or  other  foreign  material  Is  passed  into  the 
n^asting    room.      The    sieves    used    for   this 


MANUFACTURE.  59 

process  arc  long  barrels  on  a  slight  incline, 
which  slowly  revolve  and  sort  the  nuts  into 
various  sizes,  while  at  the  same  time  they 
renio\'e  dust  or  smaller  matter  that  mav  come 
with  them.  By  an  automatic  process  the  nuts 
are  carried  into  the  hoppers  of  the  roaster, 
three  of  which  are  each  capable  of  roasting 
one  ton  at  a  time.  These  rotate  slowly  and 
are  roasted  by  high  pressure  steam,  being 
especially  adapted  for  a  particular  purpose 
of  manufacture. 

There  are  two  other  ways  used  of  roasting 
Cocoa,  by  more  direct  and  intense  heat,  and 
which  is  of  course  a  quicker  process  than  by 
high  pressure  steam.  So  important  is  this 
process  that  very  careful  attention  is  necessary, 
and  experienced  workmen,  whose  judgment  is 
almost  unerring,  are  entrusted  to  superintend 
the  roasting.  It  is  requisite  for  those  who 
have  charge  of  this  department  to  determine 
the  precise  period  at  which  the  nuts  are 
sufficiently  roasted,  for  the  quality  and  rich 
aromatic  flavour  of  the  Cocoa  depends  greatly 
upon  this.     A  miscalculation   in    time    would 


6o  COCOA  :     ALL    Al;OUT    IT. 

tend  to  spoil  the  Cocoa,  but  it  is  satisfactory 
to  know  that  mishaps  rarely  happen,  and 
so  practised  are  the  hands  responsible  for  the 
roasting  that  the  work  is,  as  a  rule,  admirably 
done  and  the  flavour  of  the  nut  is  invariably 
preserved.  In  connection  with  this  process, 
methods  of  treatment  peculiar  to  the  estab- 
lishment are  successfully  adopted.  After  being 
roasted  the  nuts  are  placed  in  trays  of 
considerable  superficial  dimensions  to  cool. 
The  fresh  air  speedily  reduces  the  temperature 
of  the  Cocoa-beans,  and  they  are  then  ready 
to  be  what  is  technically  termed  ''  broken 
down."  The  now  crisp  roasted  nuts  are 
placed  in  a  hopper  and  afterwards  raised  by 
an  elevator,  and  passed  through  a  machine 
which  gently  cracks  them,  disengaging  the 
hard  thin  skin,  which  by  this  means  can 
be  separated  from  the  nutritive  portion  of 
the  nut,  viz.,  the  rich  glossy  kernel,  known  in 
the  market  as  Cocoa-nibs.  The  separation  is 
effected  by  a  winnowing  machine.  From  the 
outlet  of  the  cracking  machine  the  husk  and 
nut  are  carried  to  a  point  over  the  winnower, 
and  as  the  cracked  nuts  fall,  the  powerful  blast 


MANUFACTURE.  6 1 

of  this  machine  blows  away  the  husk  from  the 
nut,  and  the  latter  falls  into  a  receptacle  in  the 
form  of  nibs,  which  are  sorted  by  a  diviseur. 
The  husk  or  shell  is  sent  off  to  Ireland  and 
elsewhere  to  be  used  as  a  light,  but  by  no 
means  unpalatable,  table  decoction,  under  the 
designation  of  *' miserables." 

The  mill  room,  into  which  wc  now  pass,  is 
a  very  spacious  and  well-arranged  apartment, 
in  which  numerous  machines  are  employed  in 
the  manufacture  of  Cocoa  and  Chocolate,  the 
most  approved  modern  mechanical  appliances 
having  been  introduced.  In  this  room 
three  long  lines  of  millstones  are  at  work 
crushing  the  nibs,  which  are  fed  into  a  hopper, 
from  whence  they  pass  between  granite  mill- 
stones. As  these  stones  are  heated  the  nibs 
are  reduced  to  a  creamy  fluid,  which  flows  into 
a  receptacle.  The  nibs  are  hard  and  brittle 
before  they  are  crushed,  but  after  a  few  minutes 
grinding  the  oil  they  contain  is  disengaged  by 
the  heat,  and  an  oleaginous  paste  is  produced. 
From  this  fluid  the  Cocoa-butter  is  extracted 
by  means  of  a  certain  process — a  speciality  of 


62  COCOA  :    ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

the  firm — and  the  substance  Is  left  perfectly 
dry.  This  is  speedily  reduced  to  an  iinpal- 
[)able  powder,  and  the  well-known  and 
absolutely  pure  Cocoa  essence,  for  which  the 
finn  Is  so  celebrated,  is  complete. 

It  should  be  explained  here  that  there  are 
three  forms  in  which  absolutely  pure  Cocoa 
can  be  used,  namely  :  ist,  the  Cocoa-nib  before 
n^rinding  into  a  paste,  prepared  for  drinking 
by  making  an  Infusion  from  them  by  boiling  in 
water ;  2nd,  the  Cocoa-nib  ground  into  a 
paste  and  solidifying  into  a  hard  cake  and 
retaining  all  the  butter :  this  Is  not  soluble  in 
boiling  water ;  3rd,  the  Cocoa  essence,  which 
is  practically  soluble,  containing  a  larger  pro- 
portion of  flesh-forming  substance. 

Many  millions  of  mill-board  boxes,  to  con- 
tain the  Cocoa  essence,  have  to  be  made 
yearly,  and  it  may  therefore  be  readily  sup- 
posed that  the  box-making  department  is  one 
of  considerable  Importance.  The  demand 
l)elng  so  enormous  the  firm  employ 
elaborately-constructed  machinery  to  meet 
their  requirements.      One   machine  cuts   the 


.«4 


i 


0 

<y 


MANUFACTURE.  63 

l)oarcl  Into  the  required  shape,  while  another 
glues  the  parts  together  and  perfects  the 
packet  -  shell,  the  output  averaging  ab(mt 
5,000  daily  from  each  of  the  six  machines. 
They  work  with  perfect  regularity,  and 
demonstrate  the  state  of  perfection  to  which 
labour-saving  inventions  have  been  brought. 
The  boxes  are  removed  by  means  of  a  hollow 
band,  and  forwarded  to  the  packing-room, 
where  numbers  of  busv  hands  are  fillincr, 
wrapping,  and  labelling  the  packets. 

We  now  come  to  the  second  branch  of 
manufacture,  which  is  of  considerable  com- 
mercial importance,  and  very  extensive. 
Sweet  Chocolate,  for  eating  and  drinking, 
forms  the  most  delicious  of  all  confections  or 
beverages,  and  Cocoa  prepared  in  this  way  is 
another  of  the  specialities  of  the  firm.  To 
the  manufacture  of  the  numerous  varieties 
this  last  section  of  the  factory  is  devoted. 
The  pure  Cocoa  is,  in  the  first  place,  incorp- 
orated with  white  sucrar  in  what  is  called  a 


04  COCOA  :     ALL   ADOUT    IT. 

''  Melangeur."  This  mixing  machine  consists 
of  a  round  granite  revolving  slab,  forming  a 
pan,  the  sides  being  of  steel.  Into  this  recep- 
tacle the  Cocoa  and  sugar  are  poured,  and  two 
sets  of  heavy  stationary  granite  rollers  bruise 
the  thick  mass,  which  is  reduced  to  the  con- 
sistency of  dough.  A  double  knife,  the  action 
of  which  is  similar  to  that  of  a  screw  propel- 
ler, continually  revolves  just  above  the  rotary 
stone  slab,  and  distributes  the  chocolate  as  it 
passes.  There  were  several  of  these  machines 
at  work,  and  our  attention  was  particularly 
directed  to  one  of  an  improved  design  and 
great  magnitude,  which  mixed  and  ground 
the  Chocolate,  and  then  automatically  passed 
it  on  to  heavy  granite  cylinders,  which  system- 
atically and  gradually  reduce  the  chocolate  to 
a  given  degree  of  fmeness,  the  operation 
being  effected  with  remarkable  exactitude. 

One  special  article  made  by  the  firm  has 
been  compared  to  the  famous  Chocolate 
that  Prescott  describes  as  forming  part  of 
Montezuma's  repast — ''  In  golden  goblets 
llavoured   with   vanilla,   and  so  orcparcd    as 


MANUFACTURE.  67 

to  be  reduced  to  a  froth  of  the  consistency 
of  honey,  which  gradually  dissolved  in  the 
mouth." 

In  this  establishment  the  charm  said  to  be 
inseparable  from  variety  is  not  lacking.  The 
creme  moulding-room  presented  a  scene  that 
was  unlike  any  previously  witnessed  within 
the  works.  The  work  upon  which  the  young 
v/omen  in  this  room  were  engaged  was  of  a 
delicate  and  light  description,  particularly 
suitable  for  female  hands.  In  this  portion  of 
the  factory  the  delicious  Chocolate  creams, 
which  we  need  not  describe  because  they  are 
so  well  known,  are  poured  rapidly  into  moulds 
of  various  patterns  and  designs.  These 
moulds  are  formed  in  finely  prepared  corn 
tlour,  which  gives  the  room  the  appearance 
of  a  tlour  store  ;  the  workers  dexterously 
pour  the  liquid  cream  along  the  mould,  and 
each  hole  absorbs  the  alloted  quantity.  The 
young  women  engaged  at  this  work  are 
remarkably  expert  and  skilful,  as  they  man- 
age to  fill  eaeh  mould  with  just  sufficient  of 
the  cream  and  no  more,  thereby  preventing 

D  2 


68  COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

waste  of  time,  if  not  of  material.  The  creams 
soon  solidify,  and  when  cool  they  are  extracted 
from  the  moulds,  and  the  flour  in  which  thev 
were  moulded  havino:  been  brushed  awav, 
they  are  taken  to  another  department  and 
coated  with  Chocolate. 

The  room  which  we  next  enter  is  very 
extensive  and  commodious,  being  240  feet  in 
length  by  60  feet  wide.  Every  business  con- 
venience is  afforded  in  this  noble  workroom, 
and  the  young  women,  with  ample  space  at 
their  command,  suffer  under  none  of  those 
disabilities  which  invariablv  arise  when  the 
area  is  insufficient  and  the  apartment  is 
"  cribb'd,  cabind,  and  confin'd."  A  large 
number  of  young  women  are  engaged  in  this 
and  other  rooms,  of  slightly  less  proportions, 
boxing,  labelling,  and  making  fancy  boxes 
to  contain  Chocolate  creams  and  numerous 
confections  composed  of  the  delicious 
preparations  so  well  known  and  highly 
appreciated. 

Not  only  is  it  essential  that  the  sense  of 
taste  should  be  gratified  by  the  manufacture  of 


MANUFACTURE.  69 

toothsome  compounds  but  the  eye  must  be 
pleased.  Many  varieties  of  fancy  boxes  made 
in  thesti  rooms  are  admirable  examples  ui 
art  workmanship.  The  designs  and  pictures 
on  some  of  the  best  packages  are  chaste 
and  elegant,  while  In  the  vast  assortment 
of  decorative  embellishments  every  taste  and 
fancy  may  be  gratified.  At  Christmastide 
boxes  and  creams  are  In  universal  request. 
Passing  around  this  department  an  Inter- 
esting and  diversified  scene  presents  itself. 
Youncr  women  are  busv  at  work  at  their 
tables  or  counters,  some  being  engaged 
in  cutting  out  and  stamping  the  card- 
board, and  others  fitting  the  boxes  to- 
gether on  blocks,  wrapping  the  edges  with 
gold  or  gelatine  paper,  and  fixing  on  the  top 
those  pictorial  artistic  gems  which  are  so 
attractive.  Many  others  are  employed 
ornamenting  and  finishing,  with  exceedingly 
good  taste  and  evident  skill,  the  different 
sorts  of  boxes  required  for  the  various  goods 
manufactured  at  the  works.  The  hands 
have  ample  material  at  their  disposal  to 
render  their  work  effective,  and  every  novelty 


70  COCOA :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

likely  to  please  the  public  is  promptly  Intro- 
duced.  Some  of  the  latest  and  most  artistic 
ornamentations  well  deserve  a  frame. 

In  other  rooms  numerous  mechanical 
appliances  are  used  for  cutting  cardboard, 
paper,  &;c.,  and  the  number  of  fancy  boxes 
turned  out  weekly  Is  enormous.  In  another 
part  of  this  section  young  women  were  busy 
packing  creams  in  boxes,  and  wrapping 
Chocolate  cakes  in  tinfoil  and  papers  of 
i^arlous  colours.  Many  thousand  of  com- 
pletely-finished boxes  and  packets  of  every 
description,  containing  Chocolate  creams,  plain 
:hocolates,  and  in  fact,  almost  every  variety 
of  the  firm's  manufacture,  including  the 
specialities  already  mentioned,  were  ready  for 
packing  and  transit  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 
to  supply  the  home,  foreign,  and  colonial 
markets. 

The  saw-mills  and  wood  box-making  depart- 
ment are  distinct  portions  of  the  establishment, 
and  the  visitor  on  entering  these  extensive 
workshoi)S  would  Imagine  that  another 
industry,    entirely    removed  from  the  manu- 


MANUFACTURE.  7 1 

factory  of  Cocoa  and  Chocolate,  was  being 
pursued.  In  this  building  there  is  a  buzz  and 
whirl,  caused  by  the  circular-saws,  by  which 
spruce-planks  are  reduced  to  the  required 
length  and  thickness  for  box  -  making, 
and  most  efficient  planing-machlnes  renders 
the  surface  of  the  wood  as  smooth  as  glass. 
These  are  transferred  by  a  lift  across  the  road 
to  larger  premises,  where  a  number  of  hands 
are  employed  to  nail  the  pieces  together  by 
ingeniously  contrived  machines  which  punch 
in  three  nails  by  one  process,  and  through  the 
remarkable  activity  of  the  workers,  a  box  Is 
nailed  together  almost  before  you  can  see 
how  it  is  done. 

The  tinman's  shop  is  next  In  rotation. 
Ingenious  tools  and  appliances  of  modern 
design  and  construction  have  been  introduced, 
and  th(!  tinwork,  which  Is  considerable  in  so 
vast  an  establishment,  is  executed  with  skill 
and  dispatch  by  first-class  workmen.  Many 
thousands  of  tin-boxes  for  packing  the  Cocoa 
essence  are  turned  out  every  day,  and  moulds 
for  the  chocolates  are  made  and  stamped,  the 


72  COCOA  :     ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

zinc  linings  for  export  cases,  &c.  ;  also 
general  repairs  incidental  to  the  works,  which 
come  within  the  province  of  the  tin- worker, 
are  done  in  this  department,  which  is  fitted 
with  every  requisite  contrivance  for  econo- 
mising labour  and  securing  satisfactory 
results. 

We  may  state  here  that  the  most  excel- 
lent system  of  payment  is  adopted,  by 
results.  At  this  factory  almost  all  the 
employes  are  engaged  in  what  is  known 
as  piece  -  work,  which  Is  satisfactory  alike 
to  the  firm  and  to  the  hands.  The  system 
has,  we  understand,  worked  well,  and 
the  work-people,  both  male  and  female,  are 
well  satisfied  with  the  manner  In  which  they 
are  treated,  and  we  were  gratified  to  be 
assured  more  than  once  how  fortunate  it  was 
deemed  to  be  employed  at  Bournville.  This 
good  feeling  between  employers  and  employed 
is  of  almost  inestimable  value,  both  socially 
and  commercially. 


MANUFACTURE.  "J  ;^ 

It  would  be  foreign  to  our  purpose  to 
describe  fully  all  the  interesting  details  of  such 
an  establishment,  lait  we  may  rrmark  in 
closing  that  if  all  manulacturcrs  would  make 
the  interests  and  happiness  of  their  employes 
a  part  of  their  business,  it  would  add  to  their 
prosperity  and  do  something  to  solve  the 
important  problem  of  labour  by  cementing 
the  friendship  of  masters  and  workpeople. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


:o:- 


VALUE    OF    COCOA   AS    FOOD,   AND    ITS 
ADULTERATIONS. 


:o:- 


'Tis  not  enough  to  help  the  feeble  up, 
But  to  support  him  after." 

TiMON  OF  Athens.— ^^//.,  Sce/te  i. 


N  a  passage  from  one  of 
Froude's  charming  "  Short 
Studies"  he  says:  *' Observe 
the  practical  issue  of  rehglous 
corruption.  Show  me  a 
people  whose  trade  Is  dishonest,  and  I 
will  show  you  a  people  whose  religion  Is  a 
sham."  '*  We  have  men  that  steal  money," 
Erasmus  exclaimed,  writing  doubtless  with 
the  remembrance  of  a  stomach-ache.  "  These 
wretches  steal  our  money  and  our  lives  too, 
and  get  off  scot-free." 


COCOA  AS  FOOD — ITS  ADULTERATIONS.      75 

Keen  observers  of  the  national  progress 
cannot  have  failed  to  notice  the  growing 
interest  taken  in  all  questions  relating  to  the 
three  essentials  conducive  to  health  and 
longevity,  viz.,  wholesome  food,  pure  water, 
and  fresh  air.  In  these  progressive  times 
there  is  a  spirit  of  inquiry  and  investigation 
manifested,  and  the  consumer  is  no  longer 
content  to  take  things  as  they  are,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  being  of  an  "  inquiring  mind  "  he 
is  desirous  to  ascertain,  for  his  own  satis- 
faction and  benefit,  ''  what  to  eat,  drink,  and 
avoid."  It  is  well  known  that  ^idulteration 
was,  in  past  days,  carried  on  to  a  very  con- 
siderable extent,  and  although  very  much  has 
been  done  to  mitigate  the  evil,  "  the  selling 
of  an  inferior  or  debased  substance  under  the; 
name  of  a  superior  or  genuine  article"  still 
continues,  both  as  regards  food  and  drink. 

All  foods  are  classified  into  two  types  or 
divisions — namely,  the  nitrogenous,  or  tissue- 
forming,  and  the  caloriilcient,  or  lu. it- 
creating. 


76  COCOA  :     ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

By  the  term  *'  nitrogenous  "  is  meant  all 
foods,  whether  derived  from  the  animal  or 
vegetable  kingdom,  which  contain  nitrogen  as 
one  of  the  elements  of  their  composition,  in 
addition  to  carbon,  hydrogen,  and  oxygen. 
These  foods  are  also  called  tissue-formers, 
and  the  measure  of  their  flesh-forming  value 
is  the  quantity  of  nitrogen  they  contain.  The 
reason  of  this  is  found  in  the  fact  that  all  the 
tissues  of  the  body,  fat  excepted,  contain 
nitrogen,  and  those  wherein  the  nutritive 
changes  are  most  active,  such  as  muscle  and 
nerve,  contain  the  largest  amount  of  nitrogen. 

The  active  principle  of  Cocoa  is  Theo- 
bromine, of  which  active  principle  we  find, 
according  to  Drs.  Playfair  and  Lankester — 

Tea  contains    3  per  cent.  Theine. 

Coffee       „         13/      „       Caffein. 

Cocoa       „         ...         ...     2  „       Theobromine. 

Cocoa  also  contains  a  volatile  oil,  which 
gives  its  delicious  aroma,  and,  no  doubt, 
essentially  adds  to  its  refreshing  and  exhil- 
arating character  as  a  beverage. 


COCOA  AS  FOOD — ITS  ADULTERATIONS.       77 

Nearly  nine-tenths  of  the  Cocoa  bean  is 
composed  of  matter  that  is  assimilated  by  the 
digestive  organs  ;  while  with  Tea  and  Coffee 
more  than  one-half  is  thrown  away  as  waste 
product.  The  proportions  of  woody  fibre  are 
as  follows  : — 

Tea       20  per  cent.  Woody  Fibre. 

Coffee 35         „  „ 

Cocoa  ...        ...        ...      4        „  „ 

Cocoa  is  said  to  yield  thirteen  times  the 
nutriment  of  Tea  for  the  same  value,  and 
four-and-a-half  times  as  much  as  Coffee. 

The  importance  of  these  facts  in  connection 
with  the  use  of  Cocoa  will  at  once  be  apparent 
when  we  compare  the  analysis  of  Cocoa  nibs, 
which  contain  all  the  natural  butter,  with 
Cocoa  essence,  from  which  about  two-thirds 
has  been  removed.  It  is  also  interesting  to 
note  that  it  compares  very  favourably  with 
pure  dried  milk. 

Flesh  Formers. 

Dr.  Johnson's  Analysis    (f.^'^^f^J-'n^      ""^     ]  r^  .    c 

■'  ^  (Dried  Milk       35      lOutofcvery 

Cocoa  Essence        .■.      34  Vl    100  parts. 

Best  French  Chocolates  11     j 

Mr.  Faussctt,  M.IJ.,  F.R.C.S.I.,  in  a  p.ipcr 


yS  COCOA  .    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

read  before  the  Surgical  Society  of  Ireland, 
May,  1877,  draws  the  attention  of  the  Faculty 
to  this  subject,  in  connection  with  the  feeding 
of  infants  : — 

"  Without  presuming  to  pass  any  judgment 
on  the  many  artificial  substitutes  which  on 
alleged  chemical  and  scientific  principles  have 
from  time  to  time  been  pressed  forward  under 
the  notice  of  the  profession  and  the  public  to 
take  the  place  of  mother's  milk,  I  beg  to  call 
attention  to  a  very  cheap  and  simple  article 
which  is  always  easily  procurable  —  viz.. 
Cocoa,  and  which  wAen  pure  and  deprived  of 
an  excess  of  fatty  matter,  may  safely  be  relied 
on,  as  Cocoa  in  the  natural  state  abounds  in  a 
number  of  valuable  nutritious  principles  ;  in 
fact,  in  every  material  necessary  for  the 
growth,  the  development,  and  sustenance  of 
the  body."  After  giving  some  remarkable 
cases  of  children  being  restored  from  *'  the 
last  stage  of  extreme  exhaustion  "  by  Its  use, 
and  *'  continued  through  the  whole  period  of 
infancy"  with  the  effect  of  their  becoming  fine, 
healthy  children,  he  concludes  by  saying : — 


COCOA  AS  FOOD ITS  ADULTERATIONS.       79 

**  I  beg,  therefore,  respectfully  to  commend 
Cocoa,  as  an  article  of  infant's  food,  to  the 
notice  of  my  professional  brethren,  especially 
those  who,  holding  office  under  the  Poor-laws, 
have  such  large  and  extensive  opportunities 
of  testing  its  value." 

For  athletes,  and  all  who  study  the  develop- 
ment of  the  muscular  tissues  of  the  body,  its 
use  cannot  be  set  aside.  Professor  Cavill,  in 
his  celebrated  swim  across  the  English  Chan- 
nel, and  from  Southampton  to  Portsmouth, 
considered  it  to  be  the  most  concentrated 
and  sustaining  food  he  could  use  for  that 
trying  test  of  his  staying  power  ;  several 
other  instances  could  be  given,  of  the  same 
character. 

John  Muter,  Ph.D.,  F.C.S.,  in  an  article 
on  Prepared  Cocoa,  says  : — 

"The  only  objection  which  can  and  does 
exist  to  Its  use  in  a  state  of  purity  is  the 
excessive  proportion  of  fat,  which  renders  it 
too  rich  for  most  digestions,  and  gives  unfor- 
tunately a  colourable  excuse  for  its  admixture 
with    starch.     There  are  two  classes  of  pre- 


So  COCOA  :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

pared  Cocoa:  (i)  That  In  which  the  reduction 
of  the  fat  Is  secured  by  adding  starch  and 
sugar;  and  (2)  That  where  the  fat  Is  partially 
removed  and  the  remainder  of  the  bean  Is 
served  to  the  public  unmixed. 

**  On  looking  at  the  composition  of  Cocoa, 
the  great  fallacy  of  countenancing  the  addition 
of  starch  Is  at  once  apparent.  The  only  pos- 
sible excuse  Is  the  dilution  of  the  fat,  but  then, 
at  the  same  time,  the  nutritious  gluten  and 
stimulating  theobromine  are  equally  reduced 
In  value.  On  the  other  hand,  given  the 
removal  of  a  portion  of  the  fat,  the  other 
constituents  are  not  only  kept  intact  but 
positively  concentrated  in  a  high  degree." 

Fine  Cocoa,  carefully  prepared  and  com- 
bined with  sugar,  is  probably  the  most 
delicious  and  delicate  of  all  confections,  and 
if  free  from  the  husk  or  shell,  which  Is  often 
used  in  the  lower  qualities  of  chocolate,  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  nutritious  articles  of 
food. 

The  imi)ortant  question  of  adulteration  may 


Cocoa  adulterated  with  common  Arrowroot,  containing  Potato  Starch, 
as  seen  by  x-5th  inch  power,  and  A  eye-piece. 


Pure  decorticated  Cocoa,  with  i-5tb  inch  power,  and  A  eye-piece. 
Starch  cells — inner  membrane — portions  of  embryo. 


COCOA  AS  FOOD ITS  ADULTERATIONS.       85 

be  divided  under  two  heads — viz.,  those 
additions  that  are  fraudulent  but  not  injurious, 
and  those  additions  that  are  both  fraudulent 
and  injurious  to  health. 

Of  this  latter  class  of  adulteration,  Dr. 
Hassall's  book  on  '*  Food  and  its  Adultera- 
tions," written  many  years  ago,  well  disposed 
of  them,  as  it  resulted  in  public  opinion  being 
awakened  to  such  frauds,  and  in  a  searching 
investigation  on  the  part  of  the  Government. 
The  Adulteration  Act  of  Parliament  (1873) 
made  it  necessary  for  the  manufacturer  to 
state  on  every  packet  that  the  article  is  sold 
as  a  mixture,  and  that  all  additions  are  in  no 
way  injurious  to  health. 

We  are  glad  to  believe  that  Venetian  red, 
umber,  peroxide  of  iron,  and  even  brick-dust, 
are  adulterations  of  the  past. 

We  have,  therefore,  to  deal  with  the  more 
difficult  definitions  of  adulterations  that  are  not 
necessarily  Injurious  to  health,  but  that  reduce 
the  value  of  Cocoa  as  food.  We  have  already 
shown   that   Cocoa  is  rich  In  its  nltroQ^enous 

o 


86  COCOA  :     ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

elements,  and  therefore  of  such  Inestimable 
importance  as  abullder-upandstrengthenerof 
the  human  frame  that  we  need  be  very  jealous 
of  all  devices  used  by  manufacturers  to  reduce 
its  value.  There  are  a  certain  class  of 
additions  to  Cocoa  that  can  only  come  under 
the  head  of  fraudulent  adulterations  when 
they  are  mixed  in  extravagant  quantities  ;  we 
allude  more  particularly  to  farinaceous  sub- 
stances, such  as  arrowroot,  sago,  potato- 
starch,  &c. 

There  can  be  no  objection  to  such  additions 
so  long  as  they  are  stated,  and  the  mixture 
not  sold  as  Cocoa.  It  is  hardly  fair,  however, 
to  term  such  articles  Chocolate,  or  Chocolate 
powder  (certainly  not  Cocoa)  when  the  pro- 
portion of  Cocoa  does  not  amount  to  one- 
tenth  part  of  the  whole. 

We  have  samples  of  such  articles  before 
us  that  have  been  palmed  on  to  the  public 
as  **  Soluble  Cocoa."  We  cannot  admit 
under  any  circumstance  that  the  addition  of 
starch  improves  the  quality.  It  may  be  that 
some  prefer  their  Cocoa  thick,  but  while  the 


COCOA  AS  FOOD — ITS  ADULTERATIONS.       Sy 

addition  of  farinaceous  substances  are  made  to 
absorb  the  excess  of  butter  and  to  make  it 
"  soluble,"  it  must  not  be  fors^otten  that  it 
takes  the  form  of  an  emulsion,  and  therefore 
cannot  be  so  wholesome  as  food. 

We  now  come  to  the  still  more  difficult 
and  subtle  question  of  the  addition  of  alkali 
in  the  preparation,  of  pure  Cocoa  partly 
deprived  of  its  natural  butter.  The  reason 
for  this  is  quite  apparent  to  the  initiated. 

The  addition  of  soda,  potash,  magnesia,  or 
ammonia,  either  when  the  Cocoa  is  being 
roasted,  or  after  that  process,  so  acts  upon 
the  Cocoa  that  it  deepens  the  colour,  and 
gives  an  apparent  strength  when  prepared  for 
drinking,  while  it  saponifies  the  butter  still 
remaining  in  the  Cocoa,  thus  holding  the 
Cocoa  longer  in  suspension.  (Cocoa  can 
never  be  chemically  or  actually  soluble.) 

An  eminent  English  physician  ( Dr. 
Crespi)  has  lately  written  upon  this  question 
in  a  communication  to  the  October,  1890, 
number  of  a  leading  American  publication, 


88  COCOA :     ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

"  Hygiene,"  and  gives  us  the  result  of  his 
Investigations,  from  which  we  make  the 
following  extract  : — 

''  Unfortunately  we  have  of  late  years  seen 
the  country  flooded  with  foreign  Cocoas,  pure 
in  great  measure — that  is,  innocent  of  starch 
and  sugar — but  contaminated  with  an  ad- 
mixture of  alkali.  The  exact  percentage  of 
these  additions  and  the  steps  in  the  process 
are  not,  however,  perfectly  clear.  The 
object  of  this  adulteration  is  this  :  Cocoa  does 
not  give  an  Infusion  or  decoction,  but  mixed 
with  water  is  practically  a  soup  ;  it  is  sus- 
pended, not  dissolved.  Now  the  addition  of 
an  alkali  gives  rise  to  a  soap  in  plain  English, 
much  as  when  common  soap — a  compound  of 
oil  and  alkalies — is  mixed  with  water ;  but 
this  alkalised  Cocoa  has  an  appearance  of 
strength  which  it  does  not  possess,  and  the 
ignorant  consumer  hastily  assumes  that  he  is 
getting  far  more  for  his  money  and  being 
supplied  with  a  much  better  article,  so  that  he 
cheerfully  pays  a  higher  price  for  his  medi- 
cated beverage.      But  we  are   not  so  much 


COCOA  AS  FOOD — ITS  ADULTERATIONS.      89 

concerned  with  the  actual  injury  clone  by  the 
adulteration  of  Cocoa  with  alkalies  as  with 
the  principle.  The  recent  great  improve- 
ments in  the  preparation  of  Cocoa,  as  we 
have  said  above,  by  removing  the  super- 
abundant oil,  have  so  much  increased  the 
digestibility  of  this  nutritious  beverage  that 
the  last  excuse  for  the  addition  of  alkalies  and 
starch  is  gone,  and  the  presence  of  the 
former,  besides  being  deleterious  to  some 
constitutions,  cannot  answer  any  purpose 
except  giving  an  appearance  of  fictitious 
strength." 

It  may  be  as  well  also  to  add  the  opinion 
of  Dr.  Sidney  Ringer,  Professor  of  Medicine 
at  the  Universitv  ColleQ:e,  London,  and 
Physician  to  the  College  Hospital  ;  perhaps 
the  greatest  English  authority  on  the  action 
of  drugs. 

He  states,  in  his  **  Handbook  of  Thera- 
peutics," that  "the  sustained  adminstration  of 
alkalies  and  their  carbonates  renders  the  blood 
poorer  in  solid  and  in  red  corpuscles  and 
impairs    the    nutrition    of    the    body."     Of 


go  COCOA  :  all  about  it. 

ammonia,  carbonate  of  ammonia,  and  spirits  of 
ammonia  he  says  :  *'  These  preparations  have 
many  properties  in  common  with  the  alkaline 
potash  and  vSoda  group.  They  possess  a  strong 
alkaline  reaction,  are  freely  soluble  in  water, 
have  a  high  diffusion  power,  and  dissolve  the 
animal  textures." 

One  word  with  respect  to  the  names 
"Cocoa"  and  ''Chocolate."  Cacao,  or  Cocoa, 
Is  the  commercial  name  by  which  the  plant 
and  the  fruit  is  known  all  over  the  world  ; 
therefore  It  directly  applies  to  pure  preparation 
of  the  fruit.  When  mixed  with  sugar  or  any 
other  substance  it  cannot  logically  retain  Its 
original  name,  and  the  public  have  accepted 
this  reasoning  by  asking  for  "  Chocolate " 
when  they  require  sweetened  Cocoa.  It  would 
save  much  confusion  if  this  rule  was  accepted 
and  acted  upon  by  manufacturers,  or  even 
enforced  by  Act  of  Parliament. 

Much  more  might  be  written  on  the  subject 
of  adulteration,  and  we  trust  it  will  still  claim 
the  careful  attention  of  those  Interested  in 
the  supply  of  pure  and  wholesome  food. 


Vanilla  Aromatica.— i,  branch  with  flowers,     2,  branch   with  fruit.     3,  section   of 
fruit  showing  the  three  placentae  and  indefinite  seeds. 


VANILLA     AROMATICA. 


-:o:- 


?^^^^^*^5 AXILLA  Is  so  Intimately  con- 
^^'^r  ;>  nected  with  the  manufacture  of 
'k^^^L-f^fi  chocolate,  that  the  subject  Is 
hardly  complete  without  some  allusion  to  It 
in  this  place. 

The  name  Is  derived  from  Vaynllla,  which 
in  Spanish,  signifies  a  little  knife,  or  scissor 
case,  in  reference  to  the  shape  of  the  pod. 

Its  natural  habitat  Is  the  mountainous  parts 
of  Brazil.  It  Is  now  cultivated  In  larp^e 
(juantltlcs  In  otlu^r  parts  of  the  tropical  world, 
the  principal  sources  of  supply  coming  from 
the  French  Colony  of  Reunion,  Mauritius, 
and  Seychelles,  Bourbon,  the  West  Indies, 
Java,  Ja[)an,  and  Madagascar,  and  within  the 


94  COCOA  :     ALL    ALOUT    IT. 

past  few  years  Ceylon  and  India  all  con- 
tribute to  our  supply.  Mexico,  from  whence 
the  principal  supply  used  to  flow,  has  almost 
ceased  to  grow  Vanilla,  owing  to  the  compar- 
atively low  prices  now  obtained  for  It. 

There  are  many  species  of  this  lovely  and 
fragrant  plant  which  belongs  to  the  genera 
of  Orchidaceous  plants  ;  but  they  differ  In 
some  respects  to  orchids  generally,  as  the 
stem  will  grow  to  the  height  of  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet.  In  climbing  up  the  trees,  the  roots 
which  they  put  forth  as  holdfasts  are  capable 
of  absorbing  nutriment  for  the  plant  when 
other  modes  of  supply  are  cut  off. 

The  places  chosen  for  a  plantation  are 
shaded  and  warm  ravines  in  high  damp 
forests,  taking  for  protectors  trees  with  a  soft 
bark,  into  which  the  roots  may  easily  penetrate. 

It  is  interesting,  in  connection  with  our 
subject,  to  hear  from  one  who  has  cultivated 
the  plant  that  he  has  seen  it  growing  freely 
round  the  stem  of  the  Cocoa  tree  like  a  hop. 

Vanilla   Aromatica  and  V,  Plani folia  arc 


VANILLA    ARO^LVTICA.  95 

the  species  from  which  the  best  kind  of 
Vanilla  is  grown  for  commerce.  The 
leaves  are  thick  and  fleshv,  as  are  also  the 
llowers,  which  are  of  a  whitish-green  colour. 

The  sweet  perfume  of  Its  fruit  Is  perceptible 
at  a  great  distance,  and  attracts  numbers  of 
brilliantly  coloured  birds  that  dispute  for  the 
seeds  when  the  fruit  opens. 

The  Chica  Vanilla  of  Panama  is  yielded  by 
another  orchid,  a  species  of  sobralla.  The 
expressed  juice  of  V.  claviciLlata,  a  native  of 
mountainous  woods  In  the  West  Indies,  is 
applied  to  recent  wounds,  and  is  hence  called 
by  the  French  In  St.  Domingo  Lianc  a 
blcssurcs.  There  Is  a  species  known  as  zizpic 
In  Yucatan,  which  is  a  great  ornament  of  the 
ccnotes,  or  subterranean  water  caverns  of  the 
country.  These  singular  caverns  are  some- 
times entirely  subterranean,  and  are  then,  of 
course,  without  vegetation  ;  frequently,  how- 
ever, they  are  more  or  less  open  at  the  top, 
when  they  are  often  of  surpassing  beauty, 
on  account  of  the  luxuriant  development  of 
vegetable  life  which  they  contain.     To  these 


96  COCOA  :   ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

ceiiotes  the  few  ferns  of  Yucatan  are  almost 
confined,  and  It  Is  here  that  this  Vanilla  attains 
perfection.  The  pods  are  occasionally  taken 
to  market  at  Valladolld,  where  they  may  be 
bought  at  an  almost  nominal  price. 

Vanilla  was  not  known  in  Europe  until 
after  the  discovery  of  America,  and  little  or 
nothing  was  known  of  the  plant  that  produced 
it  till  1 703,  when  it  was  described  by  Plumler. 

De  Menonville,  who  travelled  to  Guaxaca 
in    1777,    thus    describes    his    discovery    of 
Vanilla     In     that    district.         After    various 
hindrances  and  disappointments,  he  says  : — 
*'  At   length   an    Indian,    with  a  hoe   in   his 
hand,  made  his  appearance.      '  Brother,'  said 
I,    holding   out   a   dollar,    *  show    me   some 
Vanilla  and  this  is  yours.'     He  coolly  bade 
me   follow   him,   and  advancing  a  few  steps 
through   the    underwood    into    a    thicket,    in 
which     were    a    number    of    trees,    he    im- 
mediately climbed  up  one,    threw  down   to 
me  two  pods  of  Vanilla  perfectly  ripe,  and 
])ointed  out  to  me  a  branch  on  which  several 
others    were    hanging    yet    green,    together 


VANILLA   AROMATICA.  97 

with  two  faded  flowers.  The  form  of  the 
leaves,  the  fruit,  the  pecuHar  smell  of  the 
plant — everything  convinced  me  it  was  the 
real  Vanilla  in  everything  corresponding  with 
such  as  I  had  seen  at  Vera  Cruz.  All  the 
trees  of  this  little  copse  were  covered  with  it. 
I  saw  a  quantity  of  green  fruit,  but  collected 
no  more  than  six  specimens  of  these,  and 
four  large  pods  which  were  ripe.  I  caused 
the  Indian  afterwards  to  part  from  the  root 
some  of  the  scions  which  had  sprung  up. 
These  I  tied  well  together,  wrapping  up 
the  whole  in  the  leaves  of  an  arum,  which  at 
their  base  are  3  feet  wide.  After  thus  pack- 
ing a  faggot,  which  weighed  upwards  of  thirty 
pounds,  I  placed  It  in  my  large  sack,  which  I 
fastened  on  my  horse.  I  was  so  well  satisfied 
with  my  Indian  that,  besides  what  I  promised 
him,  I  gave  him  two  reals  in  addition.  For  his 
part,  unwilling  to  be  outdone  in  generosity, 
he  ran  to  his  hut  and  brought  me  three 
other  pods  of  vanilla." 

The  Duke  of  Marlborough  Introduced  the 
plant  into  this  country  in  1800,  from  whence 

G 


98  COCOA  :   ALL   ABOUT   IT. 

It  made  its  way  to  the  Continent  where  it  is 
grown,  and  made  to  bear  abundance  of  fruit. 

At  Liege  it  is  grown  on  a  small  scale,  and 
a  plant  cultivated  at  Paris  in  1840  attained 
the  height  of  three  yards,  and  yielded  1 1 7 
pods,  which  ripened  in  twelve  months.  Fine 
examples  may  be  seen  In  the  tropical  and 
economic  houses  at  Kew.  Mr.  Ewing  and 
Mr.  E.  Bennett  grew  the  Vanilla  with  con- 
siderable success  at  Csberton  ;  the  latter 
gathered  no  less  than  300  ripe  pods  off  a 
single  plant  in  one  season.  He  considers  a 
temperature  of  from  50  to  70  degrees  to 
be  most  suitable  for  it.  He  found  it 
necessary  to  effect  fertilization  by  artificial 
means,  the  stigma  being  prevented  from 
receiving  the  pollen  of  its  own  flower  by 
the  interposition  of  an  organ  called  the 
retinacMlum, 

This  process,  which  in  these  climates  is 
obliged  to  be  performed  artificially,  is  done 
naturally  by  insects  in  countries  where  the 
plants  were  originally  found  in  their  wild 
state. 


VANILLA    AROMATICA.  99 

The  fruit  of  the  plant  is  a  long  bean  or  pod, 
growing  from  four  to  twelve  inches  in  length, 
and  containing  an  immense  number  of  small 
black  granules,  surrounded  by  a  thick  bal- 
samous  substance,  which  contains  a  peculiar 
volatile  oil,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of 
benzoic  acid. 

These  give  the  delicious  flavour  and 
aroma,  which  prove  so  powerful  and 
penetrating  that  a  few  ounces  will  flavour 
one  hundred-weight  of  Chocolate. 

Vanilla  acts  as  a  slight  stimulant  in  the 
system,  and  the  fact  of  its  possessing  benzoic 
acid  is  one  that  should  not  be  lost  sight 
of.  It  is  said  to  be  used  by  the  Spanish 
Physicians  in  America  as  an  antidote  to 
poisons,  and  to  the  bite  of  venomous 
creatures. 

The  harvest  In  Mauritius  begins  in  July, 
and  as  late  as  December  in  South  America, 
the  fruit  being  gathered  when  yellow,  and 
after  slight  fermentation  they  are  laid  in  the 
sun  to  dry  ;  when  about   half  dried,  the  pods 


lOO  COCOA  :    ALL    ABOUT    IT. 

are  rubbed  with  mahogany  nut  oil,  and  after 
again  being  exposed  to  the  sun  are  oiled  a 
second  time. 

In  another  mode  of  preparation,  the  fruit 
for  the  market  Is  allowed  to  dry  until  the 
pods  have  lost  their  yellowish  green  colour. 
Straw  mats,  covered  with  woollen  blankets, 
are  then  laid  on  the  ground,  and  when  these 
are  warm,  the  fruits  are  spread  on  them  and 
exposed  to  the  sun.  After  a  time  they  are 
wrapped  in  blankets,  and  placed  in  boxes 
covered  with  cloth,  after  which  they  are  again 
exposed.  In  about  twelve  hours,  the  fruits 
should  become  a  dark  coffee  colour,  but  if 
they  do  not  the  process  is  repeated. 

About  fifty  pods  are  then  tied  tightly 
together  in  a  bundle,  at  each  end,  and  once 
round  the  centre,  with  a  species  of  grass,  and 
packed  In  tins,  which  are  hermetically  sealed 
for  export. 

After  some  months,  the  pods  become  en- 
crusted with  an  effloresence  of  white  crystals, 
which  possess  properties   similar  to  those  in 


VANILLA    AROMATICA.  lOI 

benzoic  acid  ;  they  form  very  beautiful  ob- 
jects when  seen  through  a  microscope  with 
polarized  light. 

There  are  various  plans  used  for  the  dry- 
ing and  preparing  the  pods.  All  the  care 
and  success  during  the  early  cultivation  may 
easily  be  lost  through  want  of  knowledge  or 
watchfulness  In  these  matters.  We  therefore 
refer  the  reader  to  extracts  from  a  paper 
addressed  to  the  Colonial  Secretary,  by  the 
Assistant  Director  of  the  Royal  Botanical 
Gardens,  Mauritius,  which  gives  a  most 
exhaustive  account  of  the  planting,  water- 
ing, ripening,  harvesting,  curing,  and  pre- 
paration for  the  market.     (See  Appendix,) 

The  South  American  wild  Vanilla,  or 
Vanlllon,  as  It  Is  generally  called,  Is  the 
variety  V.  Sylvestris,  and  is  a  much  larger 
and  coarser  variety  than  those  grown  for 
commerce.  In  some  parts  of  Brazil  the 
women  entwine  this  species  of  Vanilla  bean 
in  their  hair  ;  a  weakness  fdr  fragrance  that 
is  common  all  the  world  over,  although  in 
this  case  It  hardly  fits  In  with  our  ideas  of 
good  taste. 


I02  COCOA  :    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

A  great  variety  of  spices  are  used  for  the 
flavoring  of  Chocolate,  but  Vanilla  still  holds 
the  palm.  In  Brooke's  translation  from  the 
French,  1730,  he  tells  us  : — *'  The  Spaniards 
try'd  to  make  it  (Cocoa)  more  agreeable  by 
the  addition  of  sugar,  some  Oriental  spices 
and  things  that  grow  there,  which  It  will  be 
needless  to  mention — there  Is  none  continued 
down  to  us  but  Vanilla ;  in  like  manner 
that  Cinnamon  Is  the  only  spice  which  has 
had  general  approbation,  and  remains  in  the 
composition  of  Chocolate." 

The  old  French  writer  is  very  strong  in 
his  denunciation  of  Vanilla,  as  he  goes  on  to 
say  : — ''Whereas  Chocolate  season'd  with 
Vanilla,  and  other  hot  and  biting  Ingredients, 
cannot  but  be  pernicious,  especially  In 
summer,  to  young  people,  and  to  dry 
constitutions." 

The  French  still  name  Chocolate  prepared 
without  Vanilla  *'  Chocolat  Sante,"  but  we 
have  fortunately  lived  down  this  prejudice, 
and  Vanilla  reigns  supreme  among  all 
ingredients  used  to  flavour  Chocolate, 


VANILLA   AROMATICA.  IO3 

It  has  already  been  intimated,  with  respect 
to  the  growth  of  Vanilla  in  Mexico,  that  prices 
have  fallen  so  considerably  that  it  barely  pays 
to  grow  the  crop  in  that  country.  Many  years 
ago  prices  ranged  as  high  as  1 20/-  per  pound 
on  the  market ;  the  highest  price  now  does 
not  realise  one  fourth  that  sum.  This  is  due 
to  the  introduction  of  a  beautiful  crystalline 
substance  called  Vanilline,  which  coincides 
in  almost  every  particular  with  the  active 
principles  contained  in  Vanilla. 

The  distinctive  aroma  is  so  nearly  the  same 
that  when  incorporated  with  Chocolate  it  is 
difficult  to  distinguish  with  which  it  has  been 
flavored.  It  would,  however,  be  going  too 
far  to  assert  that  it  is  equal  in  aromatic  and 
fruity  flavour  to  Vanilla. 

One  ounce  of  Vanilline  crystals  are  about 
equal  in  flavoring  power  to  one  pound  ol 
good  Vanilla  beans,  the  market  value  Is 
therefore  about  in  the  proportion  of  sixteen 
to  one. 

Vanilline,  of  which  the  chemical  formula  is 
C"  H'  O^  is  prepared  from  Conifcrine,  which 


I04  COCOA  :    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

is  to  be  found  in  considerable  quantities  in 
the  plants  of  the  numerous  family  of  the 
Conifers. 

Conlferlne  was  discovered  by  Hartig  in 
1 86 1  in  the  sap  of  the  Larix  Europea  ;  later 
on,  its  presence  was  recognised  in  all  species 
of  pines  and  firs. 

In  1874  Messrs.  Haarman  and  TIemann 
showed  that  the  Conlferlne,  under  the  in- 
fluence of  oxydizing  agents  properly  chosen, 
could  be  made  to  produce  Vanllllne,  which  is 
no  other  than  the  aromatic  principle  of  the 
Vanilla  pod.  This  discovery  has  given  a 
certain  industrial  importance  to  Conlferlne, 
and  it  has  already  been  collected  by  hundreds 
of  kilogrammes  in  the  forests  of  North 
Germany. 

The  first  consignments  of  Vanllllne  were 
between  1874  and  1878  and  were  prepared 
by  a  patent  process,  that  is  to  say  by  the 
oxidization  of  the  Conferlne.  This  Is  only  to 
be  found  in  the  descending  sap  of  the  pines, 
so  in  the  spring  Incisions  were  made  at  the 


VANILLA   AROMATICA.  IO5 

base  of  the  trees  and  the  sap  which  flows  from 
them  was  collected  ;  it  was  then  filtered  and 
exposed  to  the  air,  when  it  soon  became  solid. 
In  this  state  it  constitutes  the  Conferine,  which 
could  be  preserved  indefinitely  and  made  use 
of  when  required  for  its  transformation  into 
Vanilline. 

The  more  modern  and  advantageous  plan 
IS  to  fell  the  tree,  cut  off  the  branches,  and 
strip  them  of  their  bark.  The  sap  is  then 
collected  by  scraping  the  trunk  with  a  sharp 
instrument — an  iron  scraper  or  a  knife — and 
the  liquid,  as  it  oozes  out  is  absorbed  by  a 
coarse  sponge,  and  then  squeezed  into  a  tin 
bucket.  If  too  long  a  time  elapses  between 
these  two  processes  the  evaporation  is  rapid 
enough  to  solidify  the  juice  and  then  it  cannot 
be  collected.  The  sap  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  a  white  milky  opaque  liquid,  and  in 
its  normal  state  contains  a  particular  sugar, 
albumen,  and  Conferine.  In  order  to  prevent 
fermentation  it  ouorht  after  five,  or  six  hours 
at  the  most  to  be  boiled  in  a  furnace  from  ten 
to  fifteen  minutes,  so  as  to  congeal  the 
albumen  it  contains.     The  boiling  liquid   is 


I06  COCOA  :    ALL   ABOUT    IT. 

filtered  through  a  coarse  flannel  or  baize  bag, 
and  the  filtered  liquid  is  then  evaporated  to 
the  fifth  part  of  the  original  quantity.  It  Is 
then  allowed  to  cool  gently  in  a  shady  place 
for  one  night ;  It  then  deposits  very  small 
white  crystals  of  Vanllllne.  In  order  to 
collect  them  the  liquid  is  thrown  upon  a  linen 
cloth,  and  when  the  crystals  are  sufficiently 
drained  they  are  pressed  in  order  to  squeeze 
out  the  brown  syrup  which  colours  them  and 
prevents  their  drying. 

The  Vanllllne  obtained  by  this  method  is 
identical  with  the  crystals  already  described 
as  forming  on  the  Vanilla  pod,  the  chemical 
constitution  of  the  one  being  identical  with 
the  others,  as  also  their  physical  properties. 


APPENDIX. 


Extracts  from  a  paper  addressed  to  the 
Colonial  Secretary  by  Mr.  N.  Cantley, 
Assistant  Director  of  the  Royal  Botanical 
Gardens,  Mauritius,  and  supplied  by  Messrs. 
Brookes  and  Green,  Brokers,  Mincing 
Lane,   London. 

July  23,  1874. 
Sir, 

I  have  the  honor  to  lay  before  you  the  following 
details  respecting  the  cultivation  of  the  Vanilla  Plant 
(  V.  Flanifolia)  as  practised  by  the  principal  growers  io 
this  Colony,  viz.: — 

PREPARING    THE    GROUND    FOR    PLANTING. 

The  plant  will  grow  tolerably  well  in  any  porous  soil, 
still  it  has  been  found  by  practical  growers  that  a 
composition  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  well  decomposed 
leaves,  loam,  sand,  and  charcoal,  is  best  suited  to  the 


Io8  APPENDIX. 

wants  of  the  plant,  and  when  this  can  be  obtained 
trenches  should  be  made  the  entire  length  of  the  ground 
intended  for  the  plantation,  i8  inches  wide,  2  feet  deep, 
and  8  feet  apart,  and  filled  previous  to  planting  with  the 
composition  just  alluded  to.  Some  growers  put  only  a 
small  quantity  of  the  composition  into  the  trenches  the 
first  season,  or  sufficient  to  give  the  plants  a  start,  adding 
the  remainder  year  by  year,  by  way  of  surface  dressing, 
but  this  is  objectionable  in  countries  subjected  to  heavy 
periodical  rains,  as  the  trenches  often  stand  full  of  water 
during  such  rains,  greatly  to  the  injury  of  the  plants  ;  it  is, 
cherefore,  safer  to  fill  the  trenches  the  first  year,  or  when 
the  plants  are  planted. 

SHADE. 

The  Vanilla,  like  the  rest  of  the  orchidaceal,  delight  in 
shade,  a  fact  which  at  once  suggests  that  it  ought  to  be 
planted  among  trees  sufficiently  large  to  screen  it  from 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  but  where  such  trees  are  not 
available  young  trees  must  be  planted,  and  now  arises 
the  question,  what  will  grow  quickest  in  order  that  the 
Vanilla  may  be  planted  as  soon  as  possible  ?  The  plants 
most  commonly  used  for  this  purpose  in  Mauritius  are 
the  Lilas  de  VTude  of  the  Creoles,  Melia  Azadarech,  and 
Tecoma  Lencoxylon,  and  are  planted  8  feet  apart,  as 
permanent  plants,  but  when  these  are  only  a  few  inches 
high  when  planted  it  is  evident  that  a  period  of  at  least 
three  years  must  elapse  before  any  considerable  amount 
of  shade  can  be  expected  from  them,  and  this  would 
delay  the  planting  of  the  Vanilla  an  equal  length  of  time 
had  not  the  planters  access  to  another  olant,  the  Pignoi\ 


APPENDIX.  109 

de  I  Tilde  of  the  Creoles  (Tatropha  Curcus),  which  is  of 
extremely  rapid  growth,  but  of  no  permanent  nature ;  it 
is  easily  increased  by  cuttings  of  the  branches,  which  are 
generally  cut  in  lengths  of  2  feet,  and  planted,  18  inches 
apart,  in  line  with  the  Lila  and  Tecoma  plants  previously 
mentioned,  and  as  they  will  very  soon  produce  leaves,  some 
growers  plant  the  Vanilla  at  the  same  time,  and  train  it 
under  the  shade  oi  Pignon  de  FTude. 

It  is  better  to  wait  until  the  Pignon  de  FTude  be 
sufficiently  strong  to  allow  of  the  trellis  work  being 
erected.  Where  dead  palm  leaves  are  plentiful  some 
growers  screen  the  whole  plantation  at  the  first  outset, 
and  plant  the  Vanilla  at  once,  but  it  is  not  often  that 
leaves  are  to  be  had  in  sufficient  quantity  to  allow  of  this 
being  done,  and,  again,  it  is  ten  to  one  if  the  first  strong 
wind  does  not  destroy  the  whole  construction. 

PLANTING. 

The  usual  method  of  planting  Vanilla  is  by  cuttings  of 
the  stems  of  strong  healthy  plants,  and  if  cut  in  lengths 
of  3  feet,  they  will  generally  produce  fruit  18  months 
after  planting.  Plantations  are  generally  made  during 
the  months  of  October  and  November,  in  Mauritius,  or 
at  the  commencement  of  the  hot  season,  when  the  sap, 
after  a  season  of  comparative  rest,  is  being  stimulated  by 
the  increasing  heat  into  renewed  action.  As  the  rapidity 
of  growth  greatly  depends  on  the  nurrjber  of  roots,  care 
must  be  taken  that  three  joints  (nodes)  of  the  cutting  be 
placed  on  the  ground,  in  an  oblique  direction,  and  from 
these  joints  a  plentiful  supply  of  roots  will  be  given  out, 
which  must  be  treated  as  hereafter  stated. 


no  APPENDIX. 

TRAINING,    OR   ARTIFICIAL   SUPPORT. 

The  rapidity  with  which  the  Vanilla  plant  grows  when 
its  roots  have  free  action  in  a  suitable  soil  is  somewhat 
amazing,  it  is  therefore  no  question  that,  if  some  system 
of  artificial  training  be  not  resorted  to,  it  must  very  soon 
outgrow  the  plants  which  are  intended  to  shade  it.  Few 
trees  can  keep  pace  with  the  Vanilla  plant,  and  even 
were  it  otherwise,  it  would  not  be  advisable  to  let  the 
plant  grow  straight  up,  because  they  would  very  soon 
get  out  of  reach  in  this  position,  so  that  a  ladder  would 
have  to  be  used  in  gathering  the  pods,  fertilizing,  &:c.,  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  plants  ought  to  be  allowed  to  run 
straight  up  until  they  arrive  at  about  6  feet  in  height,  as 
it  is  well  known  that  the  more  perpendicular  the  plant  be 
the  quicker  will  it  grow.  But  to  prevent  this  taking  place 
poles  of  about  7  feet  in  length  are  driven  into  the  ground, 
perpendicularly,  about  8  feet  apart,  and  when  well  firmed 
horizontal  bars  are  attached  to  them,  one  foot  apart.  As 
soon  as  the  Vanilla  has  reached  the  top  of  this  con 
struction  it  is  trained  along  the  horizontal  bars  and  thus 
prevented  from  getting  too  much  sun. 

WATERING. 

The  quantity  of  water  required  is  greatly  modified  by 
the  state  of  the  weather  and  kind  of  soil  in  which  the 
plants  are  growing,  but  if  planted  in  the  composition 
previously  recommended,  a  good  watering  twice  a  week 
in  the  hot  season,  and  once  a  week  in  the  cold  season, 
will  be  generally  found  sufficient,  but  should  never  be 
given  until  the  ground  be  found  thoroughly  dry,  as 
nothing  will  kill  the  plants  sooner  than  stagnant  water  at 
their  roots. 


APPENDIX.  Ill 

MANURING    AND   SURFACE   DRESSING. 

Of  the  various  manures  applied  to  the  Vanilla,  nothing 
has  been  found  to  suit  the  plants  better  than  vegetable 
mould,  especially  when  mixed  with  a  little  charcoal  or 
wood  ashes,  and  the  plants  will  be  greatly  benefited  by 
a  surface  dressing  of  this  manure  in  the  second  year  of 
the  plantation,  at  which  date,  should  any  of  the  roots  be 
found  to  have  penetrated  the  natural  soil  lying  between 
the  trenches  it  should  be  turned  over  with  a  digging  fork, 
adding  at  the  same  time  a  liberal  quantity  of  manure,  but 
should  the  roots  be  found  not  to  have  reached  such  soil, 
it  will  be  sufficient  to  remove  the  surface  to  a  depth  of 
about  2  inches,  and  2  feet  in  width  on  each  side  of  the 
Vanilla  stems,  and  replace  with  manure. 

FERTILIZATION. 

Self  fertilization  in  the  Vanilla,  especially  in 
V.  Plariifolia^  is  of  rare  occurrence  to  any  useful  extent 
owing  to  the  intervention  of  the  reticulum,  which  is  a 
portion  of  the  inner  face  of  the  style,  which  makes 
artificial  fertilization  an  indispensable  process,  and  which 
simply  consists  in  removing  the  pollen  from  the  anthers 
of  the  flower  and  applying  it  to  the  stigma  with  a  small 
camel  hair  brush,  this  is  best  done  about  mid-day  during 
bright  sunny  weather. 

A  brush  is  used  in  England,  but  the  anther  itself  may 
be  applied.  Some  growers  look  after  the  fertilization  in 
the  cool  of  the  morning,  if  this  be  preferred  a  dry 
morning  should  be  chosen. 


112  APPENDIX. 

DURATION    OF    THE    PERIOD    OF    RIPENING. 

The  duration  of  the  period  of  ripening  from  time  of 
fertilization  is  generally  about  nine  months,  when  the 
pods  become  of  a  yellowish  green  colour,  and  the  valves 
show  a  tendency  to  open  (dehise)  at  the  lower  extremity, 
which  is  a  sure  sign  of  ripeness. 

HARVESTING   THE   PODS. 

Most  of  the  pods  are  harvested  in  Mauritius  during 
the  month  of  July,  but  as  the  plants  come  into  flower 
very  irregularly,  all  the  pods  cannot  be  harvested  at  the 
same  time,  so  that  those  found  unripe  at  the  first 
gathering  must  be  waited  for  until  they  show  the  usual 
signs  of  ripeness,  for  if  gathered  sooner  they  will  shrivel 
during  the  process  of  drying,  and  fetch  but  a  small  price 
in  the  market,  should  any  of  the  pods,  however,  be  left 
on  the  plant  until  the  valves  have  opened  (if  more  than 
half  an  inch  they  are  useless)  they  should  be  at  once 
removed,  the  opening  part  tied  up,  and  plunged  for  a 
moment  in  boiling  water,  and  afterwards  put  through  the 
usual  process  of  drying  with  the  other  pods. 

DRYING  AND   PREPARING   THE   PODS. 

The  drying  and  preparing  of  the  pods  is  undoubtedly 
a  most  difficult  item  in  Vanilla  cultivation,  and  if  not 
thoroughly  understood  all  previous  labour  with  the  plant 
will  be  lost. 

The  different  methods  of  preparation,  as  practised  in 
Mauritius,  are  more  or  less  as  follows.      A  large   oven 


APPENDIX.  113 

(similar  to  that  in  which  ordinary  bread  is  baked)  with 
two  valves  on  the  top,  and  a  thermometer  fixed  in  the  iron- 
work in  front,  is  heated  by  the  application  of  fire  beneath 
until  the  thermometer  indicates  a  heat  of  40  degrees 
centigrade,  or  104  degrees  fahrenheit.  The  fire  is  then 
withdrawn,  and  pods,  in  quantity  of  about  60  or  70  lbs. 
together,  are  well  wrapped  in  Banana  leaves,  which  are 
again  covered  with  a  woollen  cloth,  and  placed  in  the 
oven,  where  they  are  allowed  to  remain  until  the  mercury 
of  the  thermometer  falls  to  about  90  degrees  fahrenheit, 
after  which  they  are  removed  and  placed  in  a  wooden 
box  to  sweat,  and  cooled  gradually ;  when  nearly  cold 
they  are  exposed  to  the  sun  on  boards  covered  with 
blankets,  which  when  warmed  by  the  sun,  the  pods  are 
spread  on  them. 

Some  growers,  instead  of  letting  the  pod  be  exposed  to 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  cover  them  with  a  black 
woollen  cloth,  which  by  absorbing  the  great  amount  of 
heat  from  the  sun,  as  well  as  moisture  from  the  pod, 
modifies  the  process  of  drying,  and  imparts  to  the  fruits 
a  more  superior  flavor  and  color  than  they  otherwise 
would  have ;  after  being  thus  exposed  for  two  or  three 
days,  they  ought  to  be  of  a  dark  brown,  or  coffee  colour, 
they  are  next  laid  on  perforated  shelves  in  an  airy  room, 
where  they  are  allowed  to  remain  for  one  month,  or  until 
dry,  when  they  will  be  found  to  have  shrunk  to  one 
fourth  of  their  natural  size,  and  of  a  blackish  hue  with  a 
somewhat  silvery  appearance. 

K 


f 

114  APPENDIX. 

PREPARING   THE    PODS    FOR    MARKET. 

In  preparing  the  pods  for  market  those  of  a  size  are 
carefully  selected,  and  tied  in  bundles  of  fifties,  good 
marketable  pods  are  about  8  inches  long,  and  50  of  those 
will  generally  weigh  three-quarters  of  a  pound,  the 
smaller  pods,  half-a-pound.  After  being  thus  arranged 
they  are  packed  in  tins,  about  12  or  16  lbs.  each,  and 
sent  to  the  London  market. 


A  D  VER  T I  SEMEN  TS. 


GOLD  MEDALy  Health   Exhibition^  London  j 

HIGHEST  A  WARD,  Adelaide,  1887. 

BENGER'S 
FOOD 


For  infants, 

CHILDREN, 

AND  INVALIDS. 


The  most  Delicious,  Nuh^itive,  and  Dio^estible. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  PRIVATE  LETTERS. 

"Really  I  consider  that,  humanely  speaking,  '  Bknger's  Food'  entirely 
saved  baby's  life.  I  have  tried  four  other  well-known  Foods,  but  in  this 
horrible  climate  he  could  digest  nothing  until  we  began  the  'iienger.'  He 
s  now  rosy,  and  fattening  rapidly." 

"  Black  Hall,  Oxford,  November  nth,  1890. — Sir,  I  cannot  help 
expressing  myself  on  the  subject  of  your  most  admirable  food.  I  have  been 
much  benefited  by  its  invigorating  f)owers.  About  two  months  ago  1  was 
told  by  my  friends  that  1  had  lost  flesh  and  was  not  looking  myself.  My 
medical  man  advised  me  to  try  Benger's  Food,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few 
weeks  my  health  was  completely  restored.  Please  make  any  use  of  this 
you  like.     1  am,  yours  gratefully,  B.  C.  JOHNSON. 


ReUil   in   TINS-i'6,    2 '6,    5/1    and    10/-,    of    Chemists,    &c, 

WHOLESALE    OF    ALL     WHOLESALE    HOUSES. 


A  D  VER  TIE  EM  EN  TS. 


OSLER'S 

CRYSTJIL  GLJISS. 
CJ1IJJJI. 

ELECTIIIC  LIGJITING 

FOR  PRIVA  TE  HOUSES. 


ESTIMATES    FREE    OF    CHARGE. 


SHOW    ROOMS-  I 

Illuminated  with  Electric  Lamps  of  the  Newest  Design, 

100,  OXFORD  STREET,  W. 

Manufactory— BIRMINGHAM.  Estab.  7807. 

»*»  Messrs.    OSLER    will    be    happy    to    send    Patterns    of         f 
Illustrations  Free  of  Charge. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


W^\,tn  tht  pit         d^^^^^^^m ^     ^ht |rr«t0£« of 


BIRD'S 

CUSTARD 

POWDER 

Supplies  a  Daily  Luxury — 

Dainties  in  Endless  Variety — 

The  Choicest  Dishes  and  the 
Richest   Custard. 

NO    EGGS    REQUIRED    III 


BUY   YOUR    PRESENTS    DIRECT. 

Williams  &  Company 

Manufacturing  Goldsmiths  and  SHuersmiths, 

Now  supply  the  Public  Direct  with  Gold  and  Silver  Articles  of  the  Highest  Class  of 

Workmanship,    straight    from    their    Birmingham     Workshops    at    Manufacturers' 

Wholesale  Prices,  representing  a  bona-fide  saving  of  30  to  50  per  cent. 


Guaranteed 

by  the 
Govemynent 
Hall  Mark. 


SPECIALTIES     IN 

SOLID    SILYER 

AND  ELECTEO  PLATE. 


Highest-Class 

Quality 

and 

Workmanship. 


Mebbing,  anb  CbristeniuG  presents,  :fi3irtbt)a^ 
ant)  Contplintentary  Gitts. 

Ornamental  and  Useful.     The  Latest  and  Choicest  Designs  in  Endlesss  Variety 
to  Suit  all  Purses. 


SOLID  SILVER  (Hall-Marked)  Afternoon  Sugar  Basin  and  Cream  Ewer, 
richly  Chased  and  Embossed,  Indian  Pattern,  Gilt  Inside,  £3  6s.  the  pair. 


SILVER  BACK  (Hall-Marked) 

Hair    Brush.     Fluted    Pattern, 

£\   10s. 

Parcels  of  Silver  Goods  and  Electro-plate  are  sent  Carriage  Paid,  on  approval, 
to  any  Address  in  the  United  Kingdom,  and  as  an  assurance  of  good  faith  the  money 
for  any  article  not  approved  will  be  refunded,  providing  the  article  be  promptly  returned, 

CARRIAGE  PAID  on  all  Parcels  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

WILLIAMS  ^    COMPANY,  Newhall,    St.,  Birmingham. 


A   SAVING   OF   30  TO   5©   PER   CENT. 

Williams  &  Company 

specialties  in  Solid  Silver  &  Electro- Plate. 


SOLID    bIL\  LR  (Hall-niarkcti^  Toa>t  Rack  £2  5s. 


SOLID   SILVER 

Antique    Muffineers 

£1    5s. 


SOLID  SILVER   (Hall- 
marked) Muffiners,  £,\  7s.  6d.  SOLID  SILVER  (Hall-marked)  Napkin  Ring, 
the    pair.  chased  and  pierced,  17s.  6d.  each. 

Williams  &  Company  manufacture  Electro-Silver  Plated  Goods,  strongly  coated 
with  Pure  Silver  on  a  base  of  the  finest  Nickel  ;  equal  in  every  respect  in  design  and 
appearance  to  Solid  Silver,  and  unsurpassed  for  quality  and  price. 

Williams  &  Company  guarantee  the  durability  of  their  Silver  and  Electro-Plate 
Ware,  and  caution  the  Public  that  it  is  very  difficult  for  any  one  but  a  trained 
EILpert  to  detect  Inferior  Goods  in  the  first  gloss  of  thair  newness  especially  where, 
as  in  so  many  cases,  such  Goods  are  got  up  only  with  a  view  to  sale. 
Applications  inrnted for  any  Article  of  Silver  Ware, for  which  Sketches  and  Desit^ns 
If  ill  lye  submitted  and  Manufacturers  Cash  Prices.     Carriage  Paid  on  all  Orders. 

Williams  &  Company,  "s.:::"  Birmingham 

Chtqtus  and  Postal  Orde»'s  to  be  made  payabU  to '"  Williams  i^  Company," 
crossed  "Bank  ok  England." 

The  Public  are  respectfully  inxnted  to  compare  the  above  Prices  ivith  those  ef 
similar  articles  at  States  or  Retail  Establishments,  and  are  requested  to  mention 
"Cocoa  '■   in  replies  to  this  Advertisement. 


A  D  VER  T I  SEMEN  TS. 


a 


THE 


RATIONAL" 


CORSET  BODICE 

Ladies  who  study  their  health  and  that  of  their  children  wil 
find  the  "Raiional"  Corded  Cor>et  Bodice  far  superior  to 
the  ordinary  hard,  stifFCorset,from  which  it  is  distinguished  by 
its  great  pliability  and  the  ease  with  which  it  can  be  washed. 
The  "Rational"  Corset  Bodice  "Fits  like  a  Glove," 
and  relieves  the  hips  of  the  weight  of  the  skirts. 

Especially  useful  for  Growing' 
Girls  and  Young-  Ladies,  giving  all 
needful  support  without  undue 
pressure. 

T/u  most  Apprcmed,  Hygienically 
Jor  Ladies. 


VOUNG  LADIES  STYLE. 


FOR  CHILDREN. 

White  or  Drab 


2YRS.    8YRS.    I4YRS.  Y'nG  LADIES.  LADIES. 

2/-        2/6        3/-  3/9    4/6          6/6 

Scarlet  Lasting        3/-        3/6        4/-  5/6    6/6          9/6 

Sanitary  Woollen    3/-       4/-        5/-  6/6    7/6         9/6 

Of  all  Drapers  and  Ladies'  Outfitters.  Post  Free  3d.  Extra, 


CHILDREN  S  STYLE. 

ai  to  zy-inch  Waists. 


See  That  Each  Pair  is  Stamped  "  RATIONAL. 


Wholesale 

ONLY, 


}  SHARP,  PERRIN  &  C0.,{ 


31,  OLD  CHANGE, 
LONDON,  E.G. 


POLISHING    A    PLEASURE  II 


STEPHENSON'S 


WILL    NOT 
FINGER    MARK. 


FURNITURE 


imple  Bottles  Free  by     /^  T")  T^  \\![ 
Post  on  Application.        I      l\L!/i\iVl. 


SOLD   Vt 

Chemists, 

Grocers, 
Ironmongers,  &c. 


SoU Proprietor:  STEPHENSON  BEOS.,  Bradford. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


CARRIAGE  BUILDING  OF  THE  HIGHEST  CLASS. 

Rock,  Hawkins  &  Thorpe, 

For  Home-made  Carriages,  Broughams, 
Landaus,  Victorias,  Dog  Carts,  &c.— Combining 
all  Modern  Improvements  --  Elegance,  Style, 
Soundness,  Extreme  Durability,  the  Best 
Workmanship,  with  STRICTLY  ECONOMICAL 
PRICES. 


THE    SQUARE-FRONTED    BROUGHAM. 

Seats  Four  Persons  comfortably,  even   in   the  One-horse  size,  and  fitted  with 
roof  luggage  basket,  is  a  most  useful  and  convenient  carriage. 

We  have  had  great  experience  in  Fitting-up  Carta  for  Curricle  Driving. 

All  Carriages  sold  by  us  are  built  at  our  own  Factories,  under  our  own  personal 
supervision,  and  we  can  guarantee  them  to  be  entirely  free  from,  all  the  defects 
of  cheap  workmanship  and  carelessly  selected  materials,  which  are  so  evident  in 
many  of  the  Carriages  sold  to-day. 

Designs  for  Sp>ecial  Carriages,  with  Ejtimates  and  particulars  on  Application. 

ROCK,  HAWKINS  &  THORPE, 

London  Depot:  24,  BAKER  STREET,  VV. 

Factoriea-HASTINGS. 

Our    complete    Catalogue,     Illustrated    with    every    description    of    Modam 
Carriages,  sent  POST  FREE. 


A  D  VER  T I  SEMEN  TS. 


Gold  Medals,    Diplomas,   and  Highest    Awards  wherever  exhibited,  for 
Absolute  Purity,  Superiority  of  Ma,nufacture  and  True  Flavour, 

RMOUR'S 

Extract  of  Beef 

Retains  the   True  Natural  Taste 

and    Stimulating     Properties     of 

Freshly-Cooked  Prime  Beef. 


EsTAB.  1824]        LATEST    HONOURS—        [Estab.  1824. 

HIGHEST    AWARD— Paris,    Melbourne,  and   Barcelona;   Gold    Medall 
Diplomas,  and  Certificates  wherever  Exhibited. 

Ncedham's^> 


*yolisliiTi 


The  reputation 
of  nearly  a 
Century  as  the 
most  reliable 
preparation  for 
Cleaning  and 
Brilliantly  Polishing 

BRASS,  COPPER,  TIN, 

BRITANNIA  METAL, 

PLATINOID,  &c 

CAN  BE  OBTAINED  RETAIL  EVERYWHERE 

Inventors  and  Sole  Manufacturers— 

JOSEPH  PICKERING  &  SONS,  SHEFFIELD. 

London  OfficeST.  GEORGE'S  HOUSE,  EASTCHEAP,  E.C, 


^astc 


A  D  VER  TISEMENTS. 


Dont  Boil  your  Linen   to  Rags. 

A  big  family  wash  well  and  quickly  done  with 

SINCLAIR'S 

SOAP 

without    the 

Horrible  Smell  and 

Wretchedness  of  a 

Steamy  House. 

NO  BOILING. 


A  lAdy  writing  to  the  Qnetn 
Mvs:— 1  flnrl  SINCLAIR'SSOAP 
is  a  great  saving  in  time  and 
mateiiiil,  as  the  clolhea 
require  less  rubbing  and 
no  boiling,  with  the  still 
more  satisfactory  result  of 
beinw  a  very  much  PURER 
COLOUR  than  with  the 
ordinary  soap.  1  wish  to 
recommend  it  to  evf-ry 
housewife.    Its  cleansing 

froperties  far  exceed  wny 
ever  hope  to  use,  and  the 
economy,  in  time  and  coal 
is  Will  worth  while. 

Sinclair's  Soap  is 
sold  at  the  low  price 
of  /\.d.  per  large  bar. 
Ask  for  it  everywhere. 

A  Sample  Bar 
Carriage  Paid  to  any 
Address  in  the  L'nited 
Kingdom  for  Six 
Stamps. 


SLN'CLAIR'S  WHOLESALE  DEFOT,  SOUTHWARK,  LONDON. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


KNITTING  WOOLS  &  SILKS. 

Ladies  should  buy  all 
their  Wools,  Silks,  Under- 
garments, &c. ,  at  Mill  Prices 
direct  from  the  Spinners  and 
Manufacturers.  The  PRO- 
VIDENCE  MILLS 
SPINNING  Co.,  BRAD. 
FORD.  Their  goods  are 
manufactured  and  spun 
under  personal  supervision, 
and  are  confidently  recom- 
mended as  thoroughly  sub- 
stantial and  hard-wearing 
materials.  PATTERNS 
,  POST  FREE. 

Carriage   Paid    on    all 
orders  of  los.  andupwards% 

'  Mention  this  Paper, 

Write  for  Catalogue  to  the 

Providence  Mills 
Spinning  Co., 
Bradford,  Yorks. 


"  An  exceptionally 
strong  Linen  that  will 
last  for  many  years."— 
The  Queen. 

Huckaback  Diaper 
and  Damask  Tcnvels, 
Fringed  and  Hem* 
stitched  Totvels,  Huck- 
aback an  d  Fancy 
Towe lings,  Birds-Ey* 
and  Nursery  Diaper, 
Glass  and  Tea  Cloths, 
Embroidery  Linens, 
and  A  rt  Linens, 

The  "  Old  Bleach  "  Linens  are  renowned  all  over  the  world  for  superiority  of 
manufacture,  exquisite  finish,  and  honest  soundness,  holding  the  first  rank  among 
the  highest  class  of  pure  Irish  Linen  Goods — a  genuine  revival  of  the  excellent  old* 
fashioned  grass-bleached  Linens  of  the  past  generation,  which  lasted  a  lifetime. 

THE  "OLD    BLEACH"   LINENS 

Are  kept  in  stock  by  all  first-class  Drapers  throug^hout  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States.  Ask  to  see  them,  and  judg^e  for 
yourself. 


AD  VRR  TISEMENTS, 


PERFECTED 
AND 


MALT-  OIL 


An  intimate  combination  of  Allen  &  Hanburys'  Malt  Extract  with  their  well- 
cnown  Cod-Liver  Oil.  A  valuable  nutrient  and  restorative  in  which,  practically,  all 
iavour  of  the  Oil  is  eflfectually  overcome. 


r  ^ 


^ 


T^. 


^  T«A0E~*«5,'-1  MARKS.      '<:2jff 


5l"'  »h.  use  rf  such  rot-formma  aiiHeot  P  -^ 
'    *■"  "  Biis  preparation  offonls.  J^ 


fCe/Tt 


takta  eLam.  tnaxtd  wdh  (■ 
* 

.ALLEN  i»  HANBU 


d^&OUQMl 


;i.-^-*V?4^lii: 


BYNOL  is  a  perfect  form  for  the 
administration  of  Cod-Liver  Oil,  in 
that  the  oil  beingin  astateof  infinitely 
fine  sub-division  is  readily  assimi- 
lated, and  the  tendency  to  sickness, 
sometimes  caused  by  the  Oil  in  its 
natural  condition,  is  overcome.  No 
better  means  can  be  adopted  for 
taking  Cod-Liver  Oil  and  assuring 
its  effectual  and  easy  digestion. 

BYNOL  can    be    freely  taken 
even    in     warm     weather     without 
cjiving  rise   to    nausea  or  causing 
ructations. 

Put  up  in  Jars, 
2s.  and  3s.  6d.  each. 


ALLEN  &HAPURYS 

PLOUGH  COURT, 
Lombard  Street,  London. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


WHOOPING  COUGH 

Instantly  Relieved  and  Quickly  Cured. 

PAGE'S 


ft'tZ'^.',/^;     PATENT 


VJIPORISER 


AND 


CRESOLEJIE. 


Children,  by  simply  breathing  the  vapour  of  Cresolene,  obtain  in  a  few  seconds  extra- 
ordinarj'  relief  in  Whooping  Cough,  and  the  disorder  is  rapidly  put  an  end  to,  generally 
in  a  few  days.  It  is  a  perfectly  safe  remedy,  and  will  not  harm  the  youngest  child. 
Cresolene  is  most  valuable  in  Asthma,  Catarrh , Scarlet  Fever,  Diphtheria,  Hay  Fever,  &c. 
Cresolene  is  claimed  to  be  the  most  powerful  antiseptic  &  disinfectant  at  present  known. 

Vaporiser,  with  LampComplete,  and  2-oz.  Bottle  of  Cresolene  7/6  Post  Free  in  the 
United  Kingdom  ;  or  can  be  obtained  through  any  Chemist.  The  Cresolene  can  be  had 
separately  in  Bottles  at  1/4  &  2/6.      |^g°°  Ask  your  Chemist  for  Descriptive  Circular. 


Sole  Agents  for  Europe— ALLEN  &  HANBURY'S,  Plough  Court,  LONDON. 


CHILDREN 
ALWAYS   LIKE 


BRAGG'S 


In  Tins,  is. 
2s.  &  4s. 


CHARCOAL  BISCUITS 

For  Acidity,  Flatulence,  &c.— They  speedily  eradicate  Worms. 

BRAGG'S   VEGETABLE   CHARCOAL 

Should  always  be  i  rthe  house.  It  is  a  sure,  safe,  and  simple  remedy  for  Indigestion 
and  all  Affections  of  the  Liver,  Stomach  and  Bowels,  absorbing  all  impurities,  and 
giving  a  healthy  tone  to  the  whole  system. 

In  Bottles,  2s.,  4s.  and  6s.    OF  ALL  CHEMISTS. 

Sole  Manufacturer— J.  L.  BRAGG,   14,  Wigmore  Street,   LONDON.  W. 

SIX  GOLD  MEDALS  AWARDED. 


St  FOR  MORE  THAN 
^^  HALF-A-CENTURY 
this  Powder  has  sus- 
tained an  unrivalled 
reputation  throughotit 
the  United  Kingdom 
and  Colonies  as  the 
Best  and  Safest  Article  for  cleaning  Silver  and  Electro-plate.  Sold  in  Boxes, 
1/-,  2/6  &  4/6  each.  Also  Godu.akd's  Kl  kmturk  Cream  for  Cleaning 
and  Polishing  all  kinds  of  Cabinet  Furniture. — Sold  in  Bottles,  6d.  and 
IS.  each,  by  Chemists,  Grockks,  Irunmungers,  &c. 


brary 


^^B  .   3  70,, 

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